Hi all--good topic
to draw bore or not to drawbore--
every frame that I ever constructed was draw bored, very easily done during the fitting up of each bent. We always drilled our pin holes right through the mortise first right after checking , using some care to come out as evenly as possible (distance wise) from the shoulder on the opposite side (down side). Of cxourse we slid the tenons out of the mortise in the process. We then slide the tenons basck in the mortises, slid in the bit and marked the point of the drill on the tenon then slid it out and moved the drill just slightly towards the shoulder (about 3\16") using the pick point as a reference to start, then carefully again drilled the hole through the tenon. This always works if care is taken at each step. A word of caution though, if you give too much draw the pin can and will find another way out through the side of the timber, spoiling the looks of a good job up to that point. I have seen this many times in historic frames, but they did stand the test of time anyway.
I agree with roger, try and have the foundation as level and accurate as possible.
I have had to use historic methods to level mud sills bearing on large stones, and devoid of transits I simply used a wooden level on a small post, and with the aid of a fellow helper and a small pole to take the sighting on the seatings for the vertical posts. the raisings turned out well most of the time
NH
