Jim, nice photos of the knife plate. That's a great way to conceal the base plates for that flush to floor post look.Thanks
Brad, I am doing a radiant heated slab as our finished floor that has a troweled 4'x4' stress joint grid which we will acid wash, grout the joints and seal for our finished floor.
I basically did a slab on grade in which I formed and poured 10"x24" footers around the footprint of the building. Then I formed an 18" tall stem wall on top of that using 2" foam Eco Block with rebar inside. For a one guy show that was easy.
I ran and stubbed my utilities and septic line under the footer and then up into the building. I filled and compacted gravel leaving 5" from the top of the foam for a slab/finished floor. All of the ground plumbing is then laid on the gravel at the appropriate slope for drainage with stub outs for the drains and vents that have to go upstairs in the exterior walls. We will use rigid foam in between the timber posts on the exterior walls for insulation so the drains will be in those walls. They don't hold water and they will be surrounded by foam so that is fine. The inside walls and our second story floor joists will be the chases for our water and electrical.
I also formed in the gravel 10 footers with rebar baskets for my interior posts. We poured the 10 footers first then the 18" stem wall and then the 5" slab all on the same day.
Hope that helps.
Ron
