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Joined: Feb 2006
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Phase one of the project is underway, I've dug out the uphill posts so I can get jacks on them, and I also dug out under the missing posts on the downhill side. I will be sawing out a ton of cribbing early next month, for some reason, I think I'm gonna need it.  Dave
Member, Timber Framers Guild
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Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 20
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Brad, Funny you should ask, I just raised my barn/woodshop last week. I built my timberframe house in 2001-2004 and wanted (needed) to build a shop ever since to keep all of my tools in. I had to make it a barn/shop to make my wife and her horse happy. I'm not patient enough to mill all of my own timber for a project this size but envy you for being able to. My project was far bigger than I thought it was going to be but after two years of planning and seven weeks of joinery, it turned out really great. Here is a link to my blog http://tysonsdaily.blogspot.com/ There are pictures of my frame as well as my spring project (fireplace) and last summers project, my timberframe pavilion. Tyson
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 603
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Oh I'm not milling my own timber. I don't have a sawmill. I bought the oak stock. I will have to figure out how I'm going to get it planed 4 sides. The two spruce trees I would like to use whole, not saw them. I just don't want them to go to waste. Pegs, any feedback on my floor question?
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 11
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daiku, I was just browsing your website and noticed in your pictures there is barely a check on the timbers in your frames. What species are you using and how are you achieving this? I frame with DF and I don't think I get a timber without a check.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 895
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Well, you're clearly not looking closely enough! But I do everything I can to minimize checking. In douglas fir, one key is to avoid boxed heart timber. That's if you can't afford kiln dried (very expensive). In Eastern White Pine, you want boxed heart (it doesn't grow big enough for FOHC anyway). For both, we always coat with end grain sealer as soon as we get it from the mill (if the mill doesn't provide that step). We also seal it eveytime we expose the end grain, including inside mortises. We keep the humidity high in the shop in winter. CB.
-- Clark Bremer Minneapolis Proud Member of the TFG
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 850
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Joined: Oct 2005
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Mo, How do you like that Jet planer? What thickness will it go to?
Tyson
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 850
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Tyson, Man I couldn't tell you. I have never had to plane anything with too much thickness. If I remember correctly one time a couple of guys tried to ram an 8X8X14 through the sob. It was a funny sight to see. They are trying to plane this TIMBER and the planer is sliding across the shop floor......... I think it probably planes at least 6" maybe 8", I don't know, if you ever have to plane that much, just break out the planer. As far as it how it works... pretty well. That chip (sawdust) collector we have attached to it works well, but when you are planing close to a 1/2" those bags start to fill up quickly. In short the JET planer does just fine as long as you change the knives from time to time. mo
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 850
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tried to edit. didn't work. I'll find out the thickness tomorrow. But like I said too much mass is not treated kindly.
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 603
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Tyson, Awesome! You seemed to move with great speed too. I like your design and am planning to build something similar by next fall hopefully. What now? You have the frame up. Do you have a precut SIP system on it's way or going on now? Are you going to have the roof on before winter? I don't imagine you'll finish the outside unless you have hired a decent crew to do the finishing?
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