Tim,
With my questions, I was trying to get a sense of how many of these per week/year/lifetime the original poster was going to need to cut, as well as what tools he currently had.
To my mind that pretty much determines whether to use tools he has, even if they are slow, or spend money on an expensive tool.
There is a big difference in how I approach cutting 2 vs. cutting 200.
I have no issue with the wedged half dovetail tenon. I think it is a great joint. We don't use them often, but that isn't because they are hard to cut or take too much time.
I'm also interested in what the best way to detail this joint is. As well as how much tension capacity can be developed if it is properly detailed.
I have seen an old frame where the wedges could be removed easily by hand. They were loose. I have also seen an old frame where the wedges were gone in some trusses. They had fallen out because they were loose. It seems to me that you want those things tight -- that is why I think it best to have the wedge on the inside as mo drew it in another topic. If the wedge is taller than the floor is thick, you could tighten it without taking up the floor. But if it is hidden in the wall, you'll never know how tight (or loose) it is.
I like these discussions about detailing joinery -- I would like to hear more people's point of view.
Gabel
