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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 79
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Posts: 79 |
Greetings...
I read in a recent issue of "Timber Home Living" a comment that has me somewhat confused.
The article was talking about shrinkage of green timbers stated in part "The envelope around the house must not be attached to the beams." What do you attach the enclosure to?
Joel
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 218
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Posts: 218 |
.... truths are self evident - apparently the writer is not aware of virtual connections, temporary stud walls and sky hooks. Pity the unknowing.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 79
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Posts: 79 |
Emmett...
It is my understanding that about 100' of sky line works well with the sky hooks.
Is there something I'm missing that the author may of been trying communicate?
Joel
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 218
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Joel,
Glad u caught the humor. Obviously the article author is unaware of how a frame shrinks as it dries. The linear dimensions change very little.
The timbers shrink in cross section tightening the joinery. The SIP's or other outer wall covering is screwed to the outer faces of the frame. If you are going to add wallboard on the interior use spacers between the post outer faces and the inner faces of the SIP's of a thickness which matches the thickness of the sheetrock. This permits slipping the edge of the sheetrock between the post and the inside face of the SIP's with the added advantage of another seam you do not have to tape. If you size the space to be sheetrocked carefully you can use whole sheets avoiding scoring and snapping. The sheetrock can be placed with either the 4 or 8 foot side in any attitude. There is no rule that says it has to be put up one way or the other. Use a drywall screw adapter on your drill and securing the wallboard to the inner face of the SIP's goes quite quickly.
When you purchase the skyline be sure the tensile strength is sufficent to hold up the tonnage of the frame.
Work safe, have fun.
Emmett (aka deralte)
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Joined: Dec 2002
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The guidelines for Skyhook cable is about 2,000 lbs per 1/8 th inch of rope diameter. ( Guideline only - check with the Manufacturer for specific applications )...
Or a 1/8th inch cable will be adequate if the panels are resting on Ledgers and cable stayed to plumb in 4 directions... Also,be sure to spec 'Galvanized' as they might be there for a long time.
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 79
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Posts: 79 |
Thank you for the replies. I have printed them out and placed them in my virtual tool box.
I thought the author's comment was way off base, but being a rookie preparing to cut my first frame, I thought I'd make sure. (Kinda surprised the comment found it's way past edits.)
BTW, I saw sheetrock hung the way you suggested...looks MUCH better than a few houses I have seen with the sheetrock butting up against the timbers.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 48
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I am in the same position as Joel and have similar questions.
It was mentioned to leave a space between the exterior wall and the frame to slide the sheet rock in. Should a slightly larger space be left, say 1/8" more than the sheet rock thickness, or should the spacer be the same thickness as the sheet rock?
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 218
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Posts: 218 |
Unless you have some perfectly straight and flat post faces a wee bit of space for inserting the sheetrock would be dependent on how not-straight/flat your post faces are. The inner face of SIP's tends to be pretty flat. Start with the thickness of your sheetrock and add a minor fraction which will overcome your worst case post face. A plywood nailer down the middle of the post works fine and won't split when attacked by the SIP screws. If you glue this 1" wide or so nailer in place you won't have metal competing for the same space.
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