Tim,

I can't find that essay right now, but here is one by Wendell Berry that I did find that you might enjoy.

http://www.orionmagazine.org/index.php/articles/article/160/

and one about local forest economies...

http://home2.btconnect.com/tipiglen/berryfc.html

Here is a link to more online essays...

http://brtom.typepad.com/wberry/wb-online-prose.html

I recommend any of Berry's works, especially these:

The Gift of Good Earth;
The Art of the Commonplace;
Sex, Economy, Freedom, and Religion
The Unsettling of America


I, for one, also enjoy his fiction and poetry.