Tim,
I can't find that essay right now, but here is one by Wendell Berry that I did find that you might enjoy.
http://www.orionmagazine.org/index.php/articles/article/160/and one about local forest economies...
http://home2.btconnect.com/tipiglen/berryfc.htmlHere is a link to more online essays...
http://brtom.typepad.com/wberry/wb-online-prose.htmlI recommend any of Berry's works, especially these:
The Gift of Good Earth;
The Art of the Commonplace;
Sex, Economy, Freedom, and Religion
The Unsettling of America
I, for one, also enjoy his fiction and poetry.