Hi cedar:
There certainly is nothing wrong with a antique broadaxe head providing it has the following characteristics:
--It should have an ample amount of tool steel yet visible along the conjoing line with the more maleable head steel (where the two were forged together in the axe works).
--The cutting edge should be flat on one edge and beveled on the opposite side.
--there should be no noticeable chips on the cutting edge, usually if there has been one you will see where extra filing has taken place
--when you take a file and applying alittle pressure as you push it across the tool steel edge it should not cut into the steel but slide on the surface
--if the tool has a handle in it place it in one of your hands and gently tap the cutting head with a piece of metal, it should ring out like a bell if the tempering is right, if it sounds dead then quickly put it down and move on!!!
I used an antique broadaxe for years it was one that was used in our family for 3 generatons, and could easily go for another 3 with proper care.
One of the worst things that can happen to any wood working tool is for it to stay in contact with mother earth for any extended period of time, it will quickly remove the tempering and make the tool useless.
Another thing that is extremely bad is to overheat the cutting steel usually by applying it against a powered rotating sharpening stone, this friction will heat small areas red hot and make that part real brittle. Usually what happens is that you will see a small particle break away like a cresent moon in shape. Sometimes it will anneal a small area and cause it to not retain a sharp edge. It is best to avoid powered emery stones.
As a final test you should place a straight edge (like a steel square) against the flat side of the blade parallel with the cutting edge, you should notice a slight bit of crown to the flat side at or near the centre line of the blade, this is normal, and is necessary to do good work.
I hope this helps
NH
