Directly counter to the direction you mean the joint to shrink,
Often strait towards the shoulder, far more often double draw is in order…
In the case you cite, a bridle joint / tongue and fork, both towards the shoulder and away from the crotch of the bridle. The intent being to both see the shoulder pull up tight , and stay tight as shrinkage develops, but also see the tenon stay tight to the bottom of the bridle as time brings shrinkage.
For the very same reason, in any type member tenoned into a post, both to the shoulder and up, pulling the joint down as it seasons, so the tenon is not allowed to shrink up and away from the bottom of the mortise where it needs bear and instead, someday start riding the peg.
In a brace, to the shoulder and away from the nose, completely counter …
These counter moves need only be subtle, 1/8 – 3/16ths max. The point of draw should not be focused on pulling the frame together at raising but on shrinkage. ( a well cut joint should find its way home to within the offset of the draw, if you need more, reach for some mechanical advantage or a chisel, relish is there to hold the frame together over time, not to be spent on and make up for an overtight joint or a lack of proper rigging )
I’ve had the great fortune to go timber tripping to your side twice, most recently to the Clumps event. “Prickers” seem almost universal, a machinist made tool, turned to a few under so you needn’t fight it in and out of the bore. Typically the handle end is knurled and also has a flat or some easily felt side which is always turned towards the shoulder (+ the secondary draw) and is opposite an offset nib which marks the tenon for drawbore at fitup
