Timber Framers Guild Forums Tools Tool Forum Hand Saws for Large Tenon Cuts

saw some of his saws at a tool show last weekend... I think I even drooled a lil' on some of them

My favorite Japanese saw for following up after the circular saw is the Silky Master 330 . It has a replaceable blade, the handle is the same as the smaller 270 & 300 sizes of Master Saws so there are several blade options.

I just learned the proper technique for using a handsaw in a timberframe workshop, to get precise, square cuts. I was using a Stanley Sharptooth saw. I am so suprised at how well you can do with a proper hand saw, and how fast they are. I'm now questioning which would be faster, and which would require less work, hand sawing, or circ saw and parring to the line? When you are comfortable with the hand saw, there isn't much clean up needed after sawing, to my surprise. In my opinion, parring is more work than sawing.

Brad, If you are staying away from the line with a power saw and cleaning up with a chisel, the hand saw, cut to the center of the line is right there with the power saw. I would and do choose the handsaw. If you are cutting the line with the power saw and that is it, it has to be faster. I am sure you use less energy hand sawing to the line and being done with it. I have not done a lot with dry, old hard wood, but I think it would still apply and if you had to pare to the line I can see that being a lousy job, I would reach for the hand saw in that case as well.

Tim

why pare? cut to the line. split it.
use a guide if needed. when you are comfortable (or develop techniques) with a power saw, there isn't much cleanup needed.

but, work with hand tools if you want. its all good.

If the stock is odd and twisted and you are using a power saw, this may lead to the need for clean up, while a hand saw has no base to follow the irregularities of the wood. Wise use of both tools is proper.

Tim

true words, for sure.

Brad,

Does the technique you learned look similar to this one? How bout the rest of you all?

Switch sides of the stick between 2 and 3.

Yes mo, that is similar to what I was taught. Only difference is I cut the third segment with the saw on the diagonal to match the second cut.

hey Dave,

yes. that way the saw has reference.

Cheers.