On well dried oak do you need interference fits on the joints before pegging and do I drill the peg hole slightly off center to pull the joints together firmer?
I'm not sure what you mean by "interference fits" on the joints. We were taught that the new piece and the old piece should fit exactly together with no gaps first. Then bore one set of holes in one piece while they are apart, usually the piece with the mortise. Next, put the joint together and run the drill in the hole and poke the tip into the other piece and use this location for the beginning of the off-set for your draw bore hole. After, assemble your joint and put the tapered peg in and it will pull the joint together for you very snuggly.
Others may say you don't have to offset the peg hole if both pieces of the stock are truly dry, but it wouldn't hurt if you are careful and do not over do the offset hole location.
This is my first attempt at peg and beam joints so any wisdom or nifty tricks on the subject would be appreciated.
Each type of repair, based on location of the timber being repaired, may require different types of repair joints. Understanding the load being placed on the timber and the repair joint is important when picking the repair joint to use.
Good luck with your project, and keep asking questions.
