Work on the frame and the house layout / use at the same time. I disagree with Chuck on setting up a grid and blindly using that to design a frame. Yes, there are efficiencies to be gained by running everything on 4x8 sheets, or 32" modules, or 3 apples, whatever - but to me - overtly grid houses don't make good homes. Let your use and traffic patterns and feeling of each space help drive the design.
For your question - it may make sense to build 3 small frames - and in the end they may look like 3 small frames but be connected through walls to stiffen up the entire structure. Nothing like buttressing a core against its wings.
As to adjoining columns - are there walls between? Do the rooms feel balanced with the posts in both rooms? Do you see from 1 room to the other and does it bother you that the posts might be redundant? Do you want to sit or walk through a space and have it feel 'complete' and balanced? Much is in the eye of the beholder... and proportion, use, traffic flow, ceiling heights, and piece size can be variables that make or break a specific design.
And - for corner or 'redundant' posts - often where a small wing abuts a larger wind - I'll size a corner post to be 2"+ larger in 1 direction (so 8x10 or 8x12 or 10x12 etc.) and push that rectangular shape to cover the transition / corner between 2 spaces. Nothing like having the corner of a post touch the corner of your plaster / drywall / wood sheathing and have that post shrink away a bit so you'll forever be looking at a small air space between wall and post...
I think Frank Lloyd Wright said "A doctor can bury his mistakes but an architect can only advise his clients to plant vines."
Change that to "A doctor can bury his mistakes but a timber framer can only advise his clients to hang some cove molding (and blame the architect).
Last edited by bmike; 03/01/10 08:18 PM.
