JO:
We drill our peg holes in the mortises here in the shop where we have more control. It's hard to drill a straight hole when you're on a ladder or scaffolding. We don't drill the tenons until we're on site. Pull the frame together tight with ratchet straps. Then you can put the bit back in the mortise peg hole and the hole will guide you as you punch through the tenon. We will occasionaly use drawboring where the situation warrants, but in general, it's too much work to put things together twice. If you angle the drill a little toward the shoulder of the joint as you punch the tenon, you can get a simialr effect.
Emmett's tip about letting just the tip come through is right on the money. Pull back on the drill as you near the end of the hole. When the threads hit daylight, the bit will lose it's grip, and the drill will pop right out of the hole. Then finish it from the other side.
The tip about Jennings pattern spurs is also right on. You want spurs that hang down below the cutting edges. The spurs will score the sides of the hole before the cutters lift up the chip, making for a very clean hole.
I just got a flyer in the mail from Timberwolf Tools for a triple spur auger by Wood Owl. I already ordered one, but has anyone tried one of these? CB.
