Are you limited to certain sizes or lengths?
Have you read the TFG's joinery and design books (available on the website bookstore)?
Did you run beam calcs on all the pieces parts?
Are you planning a hand raising?
Snow loads?
What does the floor plan look like? (where are the kitchen, stairs, bathrooms, etc?)
A few thoughts:
Learn about components in SketchUp - they make modeling much easier.
You could probably save pieces and material by scrubbing the frame with an engineer or a TF designer. You have lots of wood, close together.
Do you have a high snow load? You have the common purlins on just over 2' centers. The 10x10 posts and rafters could probably go to 8x10 or 8x8 depending on the loading and material choice. The 10x top plate could likely go to 6x8 or 6x10. With the intermediate posts to the rafters, the rafter span is pretty short - so these are probably oversized.
Where will your stairs go? Figure this out early. Head height issues come into play in TF much more frequently than in conventional framing.
Will you have plumbing on the second floor? In floor lighting or heat? Think about this now.
You could save a bit by getting rid of the double girts @ floor level on the perimeter of the building. The girt can be an end joist and hold the bents together.
I'm not a fan of setting queen posts on horizontal timbers as you've shown. A post (at the outer walls) will shrink far less in length than the 10x will in cross section - which means you're frame will likely sag in the middle (especially in green oak - not sure how much yellow pine moves in comparison). Where possible run your posts up as long as you can get them. This may not work in the center of the house due to design - but you could simplify things a bit by going to a king post design (unless you are limited to short pieces from a local saw mill).
Hope this is a good start.
Last edited by bmike; 06/04/10 01:39 AM.
