This tooth style is designed to be pulled. Stanley has to use a slightly fatter bodied saw to allow it to be pushed, and even then the longer version will buckle under bigger wood. I have started quite a collection of sharpsaws since the geometrical workshop. I can almost imagine the body of the saw buckling within the kerf of a larger timber and adding to the resistance and contributing to the wandering along with the lack of ability of the saw to clear the chips.
I set one once, if I recall it helped a bit but I really like my Docking Saw for larger timber and I can keep the whole saw tuned whereas the Stanley Sharpsaw is not possible with the hardened teeth. I find usually the death of the Sharpsaw is hitting foreign objects and next is use over time and finally pushing it through tough wood will diminish the set quickly, what little set it has, this is especially the case if the teeth are not hardened. Also forcing a saw beyond its designed speed of cutting will take the set away, let the saw do the work. I don't even buy the non hardened toothed version any more.
I do like the Sharpsaw, it gets used where it fits. I have always wanted to try a saw such as that linked by Ken.
One way to reduce the amount of sawing is the French Snap. I had fun this past weekend demonstrating 4 successful cuts, at the local Margaretta Day festival, the line stayed on the piece intended with no additional tearing of fibers.
Tim
