Timber Framers Guild Forums Tools Tool Forum pegs for sale

Hello all,

Hope this is the right place to post this.
I am a timber framer from N.E. Ohio , and would like to know if anyone out there might be interested in traditionally shaped pegs, hand-riven from white oak or red oak veneer-grade logs. These pegs have been taken through the conversion process entirely by hand, riving each billet with mallet and froe, and shaping each one with drawknife and shaving horse. These pegs are specifically made for those of you who draw-bore your joinery. They are octagonal and tapered, with symmetrical flats, continuous grain tip-to-tip, no sapwood, and fresh end-grain cuts to exact lengths. Octagonal pegs are all priced @ $2.00 each, regardless of size. For those of you who prefer to shape your own pegs, I have hand-riven "blanks" available for $.90 each. Any length or dimension is available, and no minimum order required.
I do hope you'll take into consideration the traditional process that yields a much stronger peg than one that has gone from the bandmill to the table saw. You can email me for photos if you like. Thanks for your consideration.

Ron Mansour

Ron...I'd be interested. I'll be pegging my first frame (12 by 16 with half loft) this summer. Do you ship to Canada?

I think there is interest in this product beyond the boundaries of these forums. I think you should advertise in our member newsletter.

Quigley,

Sounds like you're building the famous "Sobon Garden Shed"? That was my first project also, a fantastic learning experience, and a great little cabin.
Yes, I do ship to Canada. Send me a PM with specifics regarding when you will need the pegs.

Joel,

I appreciate the suggestion. Sounds like a good idea and I will definitely give that a shot.

Ron, if you were a TFG member, you could place a couple of classifieds a year in Scantlings at no additional cost.

If you like, I'll send you the rate sheet for advertising.

I just watch Jack Sobon's slide presentation at the TTRAG meeting over the weekend (a good time was had by all). He has much to say about the superior quality and spirit of hand-made pegs. I see Gransfors Bruks is selling a very nice froe . . . .

Joel,

I have a few old copies of Scantlings, most recent 07, but I suppose ad rates may have changed since then. Yes, if you would, I would appreciate an updated rate sheet. Next issue out in July?

I've never met Jack Sobon, but he has (through his books) taught me more than he'll ever realize.

Thanks for offering your help Joel.

Hi, Currently I am building the 12 x16 garden shed in Jack Sobon's book. I have the sills and floor joists assembled and secured to footings. I used an additional cross sill in the center of the sheds width and then ran the floor joists in 8' lengths not 12'. I have the post work almost completed, and I have concerns about the alignment of the posts stub tenons and the sill mortises. The distance from the crossbeam and knee brace to the base tenon is substantial. If a post has twist or if cuts are slightly out of parallel, I fear that the stub tenons may not align with their mortises. Hitting those right on is a little challenging. Anyway, how forgiving is the assembly process in spite of misalignment. I was also wondering if the girts(4x4) under compression could be useful . Then again, they are offset in the posts. Thanks for your help folks!!

Hi Clayton et al,

I have never really thought that Jack's specification for the use of stub tenons on main post bottoms is correct. On all the old frames that I examine post bottoms are equipped with proper pegged mortice and tenons.

I agree with both Joel and Jack that making one's own pegs using a froe, draw knife and shave horse is the way to go.

Shave Horse & Pegs

Making pegs like this is both therapeutic and provides instant results. Start making your biggest pegs first and if you shave too far then these pegs can quickly be reshaped to the next size down.

I have made pegs using oak and ash both of which cleave easily and cleanly using a froe but be prepared to consign lots of split out stock to the kindling pile if and when knots or any other type of defect is encountered.

Regards

Ken Hume

One must take precautions if the post is twisted, before or after, to insure proper alignment and fitting of the joint. If the post sits for a longer period before assembly you may need to adjust on the raising day. It usually is not a problem. I am daily walking past a pile of timber which is setting longer than planned, I keep noticing a spruce girt which is checking with a wicked spiral and the tenons are not aligned anymore. This will be dealt with when it goes together. This twisted piece of spruce will blend nicely with the older material, it is a old reclaimed frame.

This old frame has both stub and pegged tenons on the post bottoms, btw.

Tim

Ken, I would be interested in seeing a drawing of what a corner post joint would look like at the sill. A full m & t as well as the joinery for the two sills could get a bit busy, no?