I see many people skip out altogether on scoring these days. I think the necessity of this step is dependent on the tools you are using. If you want to do an authentic finish, say you are replacing damaged timbers on an old structure or something like that it is definitely necessary, as it is certainly a trait of the old hewn timbers. And again, if you are using the same tools they did, that is a regular felling axe and a classic American style broadaxe, you are best off to use those same methods that they did. They used those methods because generations of experience taught them that was the best way to use their tools.

If, however, you are hewing in a different style and using different tools the scoring might be forgotten. The Gransfors 1900 that lots of folk use these days doesn't require scoring. However, it leaves a much different finish on the timber and really is slower than the big 12" axes used by the pioneers.

And like I said earlier, if you are doing one of the two 'Germanic' methods, these tools do not require you to score the wood. These people wanted their timbers to be as smooth as they could make them, so scoring was avoided. The goosewing axe, if used properly, works a whole lot different than the American style broadaxe. However, ideally to get the best results from it you should only be shaving off a wee little bit of wood

I usually use the south Germanic/central European method to hew my wood, because of a combination of heritage and the fact that it works really well for me by myself. Also the fact that I happen to have the right tools for it helps a lot! With this method, I juggle with a great big axe, it is sort of like a broadaxe with a really long straight handle, and is indeed single beveled. With this, I get a very smooth face just from 'rough' hewing. I try to hew this as close to the line as I can reasonably get, maybe even right to the line. But this face is not very accurate. It tends to be out of square, and a bit wavy. So I then clean up the faces with my 250+ year old goosewing axe. This leaves a really smooth face, but one that is not accurate for American timber frames of the past. This way, it is possible to hew perfectly dimensioned timbers, which is important if you have a good Swiss mind like me!

If I hew in an American style, which I have not done nearly as much of, then I certainly score. It's just necessary. I might have an opportunity to do some restoration and historical reenactment type work this fall/winter, and get to break out my old American broadaxe again. however, I will have to replace its handle because, under the influence of my German tools and methods, I put a short handle on it...

DLB


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