I am new to the world of timber framing. I attended the stone house work shop what a wonderfull experince. I leared a lot but there is so much to learn. There is a whole lot more than meets the eye. The people that were there were wonderfull and very helpfull they took time to answer your questions and show you what to do but it was more then I could digest in one work shop. Any one who is interested in timber framing is a fool if they do not attend the guild work shops. I can not say enouph for the people or the guild.
The question. how do you determine the length of the brace mortise pocket? If I were to use culled 4x6s which are under sized maybe 3.5 or 3.75 by something between 5.5 and 6 would I use the hyp of triangle formed by the thick side (5.5-6 side) If not how would I determine the length.
Another question deals with snap line and out of sq timbers. I think I understand the snap line as to getting lines perpendicular to the referance face. I hung a sq on refence face down by the ref. side, measured over a know distance (2 in) made a mark and movered over another know distance (6 in) on both ends from the same face and edge. This allowed me to have paralell tenon lines on the end of timber. How do I get mortise cuts to be perpendiculal to the tenon so it will slip in strait. The timber I am cutting on is a 8x8 and about a 1/4 inch out of sq. but it is not twisted just sawn that way and semi dry about 2 years old.
Thanks
