I think it depends on a few factors whether or not to drawbore.
We don't drawbore much here. Left to my own devices I would probably drawbore more. But, because nobody is on the don't drawbore bandwagon I'm going to explain why we don't do it more here.
We build mostly barns, workshops, garages here. They are cut rough sawn, and usually stay that way. We use white spruce timbers because they are local. We peg with octagonal pegs because we can usually make them out of scrap hardwood in the workshop.
With the green white spruce and what are usually dry white oak octagonal pegs, draw boring doesn't seem to add much other then labor to the job. I admit I'm going by the carpenters gut, rather than engineering number crunching, but with spruce it seems that the grain might crush or shear before the oak pegs would bend providing this spring effect you talk of as it dries. Back in the day when a barn was clad in board and batten there would have been play in the sheathing to allow for the shrinkage of the dimension of a building as the connections of tie beams and girts shrunk. But, these days the shell outside the frame is usually a lot more rigid. Using SIP screws or lags to attach common rafters also stiffens the frame in this regard.
Any draw boring I've done has been in Douglas fir, oak, or white pine. I'm more comfortable draw boring in these woods. The pegs I've used have been tapered round or fashioned with a draw knife. Done well it is an excellent tool for tightening up joints for assembly and greatly reduces raising time. Its also easier to drill straight holes on the sawhorses rather then off a ladder.
