Tension and tracking are two different, but related, issues. Despite whatever mechanical issues may be inherent to your saw's design; you shouldn't apply any more tension than required to keep the blade running straight through the wood. Blade deflection can occur for many reasons, but most commonly it happens because the blade isn't sharp enough nor set enough to resist deflectionary obstacles in the workpiece, like knots or cross grain. Learn all you can about blade set angles and make sure you have a sharp blade pointed in the right direction first, then look to see if your tires comprise a radius equal to the radius of the wheel itself, and that the combination of wheel and tire are indeed uniformly round and smooth. Keep in mind that it's pointless to use a spring tensioning device if the spring is locked in place by a bound slide assembly. If the slide don't slide it's not a slide, it's an adjustable slot. There's a difference. If your wheels aren't round, there's not enough tension in the world to keep that blade from flapping around. Balancing the wheels on a stationary vertical pin, or static balancing, (which you can set up and do in your own shop/garage) helps to eliminate a lot of vibration also. If your wheels aren't round and crowned you'll never get your blade guides to work consistently either. If you run more tension than your motor can drive; you don't need a bigger motor, you need to lighten up on the tension. My rule of thumb is to pull the blade sideways like it was being forced off-track by an obstacle and watch the tensioner follow the movement. If there's no movement; you have a jammed-up blade-stretcher. Watch out for flying saw teeth!
