Here is a USDA handbook that has balloon frame details.
http://naldc.nal.usda.gov/download/CAT87209853/PDFIf you can find "Audels Carpenter and Builders Guide volume 3" online, you should get enough detail.
A balloon frame shares no joinery with TF, it is mostly butt cuts, ribbands or ribbons or ledgers are let-ins. All connections are nailed. The tool kit is basic: framing square, story pole, rule, saw, hatchet, hammer, chisel, sawhorses, chalkline and pencil.
There is some controversy over what constitutes a good solid balloon frame and a jackleg balloon frame, so there is fluidity in method.
The following is what might be the basic good balloon frame.
The basic idea is that studs run from the sill to top plate and the studs on the bearing wall all are sistered with floor joist, first and second floor. At the foundation 2 x 6 sills are bedded in mud. The frames building line is struck. Layout of studs and joist is placed on sills and stock for ribbands and top plates. Studs are cut to length and the bearing studs notched for the let-in ribbands, the gable studs are not notched. Corner posts are either solid (best) or built up (jackleg). Corners are set, toe nailed and down braced, avoiding stud feet and joist. Braces are solid ie 4 x 4 (best) or let-in (jackleg). First floor joist are set and toe nailed. Ribbands then studs are set. Ribbands are nailed through the inside face to stud and locked with toe nails. Studs are toe nailed to sill and into the first floor joist. Second floor gable side joist are set inside the stud line with the end flush to the post and building line. Gable studs set and nailed through joist. Second floor joist are set, bearing on ribband and face nailed to studs and nail ends clinched cross grain. T'm done for now.
