I just assembled a bunch of trusses with timber-linx's. I was impressed with the product. The architect originally spec'd steel knife plates and we revised it to a timber linx. With the timber linx we were able to create a very tight joint (much tighter than with the steel plate). Although I would have prefered to stick with mortise and tenon joinery, the engineering was already completed on the project when I got involved.
That said, the timber linx's require very accurate alignment of the bore and cross-bore holes. I would recommend using the timber linx for anchoring an interior post that is exposed on 4 sides (ie: hidden anchorage). For any posts that are against a wall, I would recommend using a simpson style anchor strap on the hidden side. I think you will find the strap cheaper, more forgiving for alignment and easier to deal with during the raising.
Regarding the dovetail joint, bear in mind that if your timbers are green, the dovetail will loosen as the timbers shrink. I don't think a 'hundegger style' dovetail would work with green timber. Besides, I don't think you can hand cut a 'hundegger dovetail'. If you choose not to house your dovetails, you have to make the dovetail very deep (ie: the depth needs to be almost as deep as the joist). Otherwise, the joist may fail in shear at the dovetail. The downside of this is you end up greatly weakening the supporting beam when you cut a dovetail that is almost the same height as the joist especially if you have dovetails on both sides of the supporting beam (girt, summerbeam).
