I'm using 10 exposed 12x12 x 19' long red oak timbers in my house (it's a hybrid, not a full timber frame). A local guy is milling them, and I'm debating how to surface them--can I use one of those Makita 6 3/4" hand held power planers and just hit them multiple times? Is it practical to try to rig up a system to feed them through a standard portable planer? I'd rather spend my money on a portable planer than the hand held since I'd probably use it more later on, but getting the timbers right is my first concern.

I'd appreciate any thoughts.

Can you not borrow or rent a 12 inch planer? must be tf people around you, someone could come and do your timbers in a day or less, this would be cheaper than buying something. I would come if I lived closer and the price was right.

My first choice, in your situation, would be to follow Mark's suggestion.

Yes, you can use a 6" power hand planer and hit the face multiple times. I have a friend who did this on all of his timbers (a hybrid house like yours). In fact, I have used my 12" makita hand planer on 14" and 16" timbers, taking multiple passes. It can be done and the resulting seam is either not noticeable, or quickly sandable (with a power sander and 80 or 120 grit) to that point. The sanded surface would not be as glassy smooth as a freshly planed surface with sharp blades.

I wouldn't try to feed those timbers thru something like a portable table planer. I have a 12" Dewalt of that ilk, and it does good to plane 1x8" oak boards. I have, on the other hand, heard a rumor that someone supported a timber, and let one of those table planers feed itself down the timber! I would have to see it to believe it. On my list of things to try someday when I'm bored.

-Thomas

The 12-inch benchtop planers with the self feed option won't open wide enough. They usually top out around 6 inches deep. My DeWalt does, anyway. Even my 20" grizzly only opens up to 8". I agree with thomas that you can take 2 passes with the 6" Makita, then sand off the little steps. Keep a framing square close at hand and keep an eye on how square it's staying. If one side is getting higher, take an extra pass there before going back to alternating sides. This may even vary from one end of the stick to the other. Also, you'd be surprised at how much difference it can make to put a little twisting pressure on it with your wrist to make one side cut deeper than the other. CB.

Reading the other replys I wonder why everyone wants to "finish" with a light sanding. If you set up a long hand plane with the SHARP blade slightly skewed it will remove the line and leave a nice finish. Hand tools...they still work.
bob

Like Mark says, see if anyone nearby can rent out a 12" for a day. Otherwise, go with the 6".

If you're half decent with a hand plane you can take the seam off with one for the glossy look.

In my experience, portable planers are great for sizing, but not the best for putting the finishing touch to a timber, unless you're planing on sanding it.

And the 6" Makita is well worth the investment for any future projects...

Good Luck!
*K

I'm with Bob, break out the #8!

Dave

I'd break out the 10-1/4 as it's mine and therefore sharp and ready to go now. My grandfather's #7 is suffering the effects of prolonged New England basement sorage.

Thanks for the input guys. Yeah, I'm buying into Mark's suggestion to rent the right equipment. If that doesn't work out at least I get to buy a new toy.

Was it you, Derek? :rolleyes: