What's the best timberframe drill?

Good day,
we are working on a project, that includes some timber framing.
We are running into problems trying to drill large dia holes 3/4" - 2" using our standard Bosch 1194AVSRK 1/2" Dual-Torque Hammer Drills .
The machine either bogs down when the auger starts biting wood or can't be safely held.
We'd like to understand some more about drilling with augers and are looking for a recommendation for the best type of drill to purchase.

Thank you
Peter

We've had great luck with the Milwaukee 1660-6 Heavy Duty Compact Hole-Shooter. It has a slow enough speed that bits are controllable and enough torque that it can move big wood.
Good luck, Bob

Hello Peter:
Just a note about my past experiences drilling holes in timber
For holes 2" diameters up we used a 3|4" skill drill with an auxiliary 3\4" pipe extension that was about 16" long. This was necessary so that a second person could help control the torque of the drill especially in oak or other hard wood. This was an older model skill, and even the 1\2" was more than one man could control in tough going. I have seen these drills get away and wind up (quickly) the unwary operator.
Even when the trigger is released the drill will continue to revolve, and can cause injury to the operator-Be careful and use a pipe extension at all times
NH

I am completely happy with a two speed (300 and 1200 rpm) Milwaukee Hole-Hawg, a very heavy duty right angle dril, suitable for continuous deep boring, unlike some "plumbers drills". I use the low speed for all auger work and find it very controlable. The high speed is better for boring metal and high speed bit use. The right angle body makes the drill very usefull for close quarters drilling onsite. The switch hand is well offset from the drill bit axis and is far less likely to be wrenched than a trigger or d-handle grip. Caution, the drill can throw an user.

As important as the drill motor is the auger itself, appropriate ones are availeable, but not readily.

Only a guess here, judgeing by your location I'd think your likely working hardwood. The problem you are expierienceing could very likely be a function of the leadscrew of the augers you are useing. For hardwood it should be fine thread.
A course thread leadscrew can outpace the bits ability to cut and will bog down some drills.

test post for Emmett C. Greenleaf

let me first say that I am a novice. That being said have you tried to use a hand powered Boring machine? I just reclently took a class on timeber framing in which we had both options avialable to us. Althought the hand powered was slightly slower it did provide a more consistant hole. Just my opinion.

Brian Moore