Brace Mortise Screw Up - wwyd (what would you do?)

Hi all - a quick question:

I'm almost finished with my second timberframe. It's a small, four bent frame that will a camp. I'm not a pro, it's my frame.

I've been cutting braces and found a post that I cut the brace mortise an inch too low (long). I'm using 27" braces and this one post mortise was cut 28"..

I know in the grand scheme of things, this is not the end of the world but what do you / have you done with a situation like this?

One thing I don't plan on doing is plane, layout and cut another post.

I could do the math and cut a 27" / 28" brace @ what ever the angles work out to be.

I could re-do the mortise on the post to 27" and put maybe a hardwood filler block in the bottom of the mortise.

I'm not too happy with either option. The post is in a pretty visible location, it's on an exterior wall with another brace in mirror on the other side of the post and so might look a bit asymmetrical. A brace mortise with a filler block might look a little hokey.

Like I said - it's not the end of the world but any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Mike O'

Cut the top of the mortise in the correct location. Then cut a hardwood wedge(s) in contrasting wood. Celebrate the joinery, and the learning that went on.

I cut a mortise in the wrong spot on a frame fort father. We left it open, as is, just to be honest about the process.

Cutting mortises beyond the end of the brace, then sliding in the new brace and inserting a block at its bearing end is a time-honored way to replace braces in standing frames. Also, cutting a 27"/28" brace is a good solution if you can figure the new angles. Personally, I wouldn't mind the asymmetry. Good job figuring out both acceptable solutions.

I'd second what Mike said. For me, there's an honesty to a timber frame already. It doesn't hide what it is, or pretend to be something else. An extended mortise, or a unused mortise fit nicely into that philosophy.

Chuck the math, assemble the bent with out the brace, check it for true and scribe or trace in a new brace. If the brace is housed you may have to tweak the bevel at the top of the mortice, unless it is an outside brace. If that is too much hassle a block out of special wood embellished in some way so it stands out, and if you need symmetry, make another for the other side. And if you are like me you will make a temporary glut and forget about making the fancy one. Whatever happens don't let it be discouraging, in the end it will be a memorable aspect only you know about and now a few others.

There has been more than one long mortise wedged with some other piece of wood.

I've seen this:



And when it happened to me, we followed that idea:



In the windlass frame, I laid out and cut the mortise wrong.
So I created a wedge piece and had a carver make it into the shape of an "eye" so that we could say the "one eyed timber god was watching us".....

So that we wouldn't make that mistake again....

Jim Rogers

Since I normally house braces, I favor 27 / 28 brace. The layout solution is utterly simple, if you know how to step off stairs or rafters. Hold 13.5 by 14 on the framing square,take two steps for length and the angles are presented in terms of slope. I do not think one choice is more honest than another but if you leave scored layout marks in the brace, the story is recorded.

Thank you all for your ideas, suggestions and especially, encouragement. It's nice to know I'm not the only one..

I think I'm going to lay things out and cut some 5" Masonite to use as brace templates to see how asymmetrical 27" / 28" will look and go from there.

Thanks again,

Mike O'

Or, you could extend the other brace mortise to 28" and it will be symmetric.