Aftermarket fences/ makita macho enough?

Does anyone manufacture aftermarket fences for Makita 10", 13",16" circular saws. I am looking for something larger, more stable and with better truing up adjustments.

Additionaly has anyone used the Makita 16" saw on "green" hardwoods like Red Oak. Can you rip full depth or is it to weak to handle it.
-Collin

Are you looking for tables/beds, or fences? I've not heard about any retro fences - might be a good idea. We've modified several, but usually just "get it close" then clean up with planer/other.

Tables - used to be a fellow that made aftermarket tables for Mak 16", hopefully someone will chime in with his name. Cost about $250, nice units = heavy alum plate. Had not gotten into the new Mak 16" (blue) last I heard.

Mak 16" is a moneymaker in our shop no doubt, we do some ripping with it. Put in a newly sharpened blade and it will go anywhere. We have better luck ripping down the line first with Mak 8-1/4" at full depth, then follow the same line with 16" at full depth. Saw gets warm to touch, if it is "hot" back off, slow down, change blade, something. If you really "push" the saw it will roll and wander, you need to let it go at its pace - back to sharp blade (the real key). We keep a couple sharp blades on wall and don't hesitate to put one on to make some big rips.

Use shims to pry open behind the saw. Draw lines on both sides and cut from both sides to get a good finish cut, or at least check often.

Phil Bjork at Great Northern Woodworks makes the aftermarket base for the old Makita 16. He is in the Guild Directory. If you can't find him email me and I will send you his info.

It is worth the money. Very heavy duty and accurate.

Gabel

Ditto...The 16 is a bit underpowered to really push it, so go slow and don't let it heat up. I've replaced tha armature once and the field once on mine. The Great Northern base is great- stable and can bevel more than 45 degrees (I think 60). I understand that the newer Makitas won't accept the older style base and I'm not sure if the aftermarket bases have been adapted to the new configuration. When I got mine, as I recall, they were only occasionally producing a run of a couple hundred. Good Luck.

Thank you for all of the information and suggestions. It is greatly appreciated.
-Collin

You can make an after market saw table the real problem is that the back of the saw doesnt stay true this is inproved by adding 1/2 inch alumium base the aluminium can be worked with a carbide router bit and finished withe a file . I have used both the 16" Makita and a 16 " Rayobi on both it is better to rip with a steel blade (sharp) rafter than a caribide less resistance making more than 1 pass will save a set of brushes. good luck.