chalk or ink?

Just curious about what y'all are lining your sticks with--chalk or ink? What color? How often are your lines visible in the finished frame?

We have been using black chalk for a while. Not nearly as messy as ink and perhaps more permanent. I have had ink fade/smudge after a rain. But the black chalk leaves a fine clean line that sticks around.

I recently found red chalk lines on some old square ruled timbers. The lines were still visible after about 150 years. Two lines on each face, as Jack Sobon describes.

We typically leave the lines when we can. This depends on the nature of the job and what is called for in the specs, but I personally like to see the lines and marks left behind by the carpenter.

Whit

It's only very recently that I purchased a fine chalk line for precise work, it came preloaded with blue chalk and that's what I already have on hand for my older lines.

I find snapping precise lines over 8' or so is a challenge when working solo so I stretch a masons cord down my timber and pick useful pairs of points along the cord. My lines are then inked on with a fine point rollerball pen (usually black) and straight edge only in the areas I need them.

Whit and Raphael, where are you getting the "fine clean line" to line your timbers? I really want something more precise than the standard "rope" that came with my chalk box. Thanks...

Ron, I have a Tajima fine line, which is much more precise than the ordinary chalk line. Hida tools offers Japanese lines that may be even finer. Try looking up Hida Tools, I don't have the web address handy.

Dave

I have a blue chalk box that I got from lee valley a few years ago, and it has a pin point on the end. I have been happy with the line it leaves. I don't think they are selling it any more, but below is a link to the self-retracting one they have now.

I have also seen the Tajima boxes that Raphael was referring to and they look good.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=49715&cat=1,42936,50298&ap=1

We recently built a colonial frame and used fat lines to recreate what the carpenters would have used. It is not a problem if you consistently reference the center of the line. That being said, I prefer to work with a fine line, and it minimizes the visual impact of lines in the finished frame.

Whit

the line that Whit makes reference to I also use and recommend. Just buy some extra line when you order your "box" as the fine line wears out relatively fast. Having a line that self-retracts is a definite bonus if you are snapping a lot of lines. I use black most often and red if I make a mistake with the black. I usually plane off the chalk lines and whatever layout lines after the joinery is done.... if it is not possible to plane the timber after joinery, as in old barn beams, I would use the technique Raphael describes, pinning a line to the timber and using the line itself as a layout tool.

Believe it or not I found mine at the local lumberyard/hardware store, it's a different model Tajima from that Lee Valley chalk line.


I was picking up J bolts one day and there they were at the check out counter, available with .5mm or .3mm? lines. It has a 3:1 gear ratio hand cranked return.

you guys are great, thanks for the help. Ron

To make a very fine line you need to use a different line than what comes in a standard chalk line.
The line to use is a braided Dacron, normally a fishing line.
I have tons of it if someone wants to get a couple of hundred feet....

Jim Rogers

I have to agree with Jim, an old chalk line and braided fishing line works great. I would like to know if anyone has any tricks for snapping lines on visual faces. We are doing a job that is rough sawn with just a light sanding. Stringing a line and marking all the lines at all the joinery for layout is too slow and I'm afraid the lines will show up being we are only knocking down the slivers during sanding. I know black will never come off, red we call forever red, and I still have blue chalk that I thought would wear off on the patio's around our house. We've used white before and it seems it wears off the easist. Any solutions?

I use white for temporary lines - it is great for reclaimed, hewn, or rough sawn where you can't leave the line and you can't plane it off. Sometimes it is a little too temporary -- you may need to resnap a few lines that disappear too soon, but that's what you want anyway.

gh

A good reference guide can be found here;
http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100342
view the product reference guide toward the bottom.
Bob

If I was really concerned with having an extremely fine line that was invisible after assembly I'd do the stretched cord thing and sketch it on with my Hock Layout knife.



It's also what I use to layout lines someone else will be cutting.

Thanks for that link, Bob. I never knew about yellow, green, and orange chalk!

I have heard a rumor that the government developed a special plaid chalk. Maybe this would trump black?
Whit