sharpening broad axes

It must be that time of year to think about sharpening tools.

Any advice on sharpening broad axes? I need to remove some material to get past the abused edge.

I have an old craftsman waterstone wheel that I have a notion to try.

Thanks in advance for the advice.

Happy Holidays.

Zach

Zach, You could try a large course file and finish up with a fine file than a stone if necessary. File use depends on the hardness of the steal, if its to hard a file won't cut it, you will wreck the file. Clamp the head in a vice if one is avaliable. Tim

Thanks for the reply, Tim. I'd use a file, but I'd probably need to buy a box. I've used a file plenty, and they just don't go far in removing material. And that laminated steel has also kept me away from the file idea.
Thanks nonetheless.

Zach

Zach, that must be big nick or a very abused edge. Next bet is somthing electrical with a belt of sorts or a disc on a hand held grinder. Hard steal is tough on the file. I some times wonder just what hardness is best, to hard-its time consuming to sharpen and possibly brittle, to soft-won't hold an edge. I have found a nice middle ground for most of my tools, I keep trying new(old) tools from the antique tool places, to find one of the correct hardness, ax, draw knife, adze etc.. One of my favorite axes I use is sharpened only with a file, no hard spots, and stays sharp through two frames of use, the steal actually becomes polished with use and is still sharp, maybe it's charmed. So, if this is an ax that feel nice in your hands spend the time getting a sharp edge, with what ever means possible, or keep trying different tools till somthing somes around. Good luck, and Merry Christmas etc. I also have re-shaped the heads of some of my axes and then re-tempered them to a hardness of my likeness, it was a tricky process to say the least. Tim

Tim-

Great advice. Yeah, that's how tools come sometimes. I have two heads that look very promising. Time to get dirty.
All the best, and Merry Christmas to you.

Zach

Hi Zack:

Nice to hear from you again, and for your sharpening query, I would very gently remove some of metal from the side of the angled cutting edge staying about 1\4" from the cutting edge itself.
I would use an ordinnary grinding stone for this part of the process being very careful not to overheat any part, as this will remove the temper. Dip it constantly into water as you work. A waterstone like the one you mention would be great, the water would keep the blade cool during the removal.
This process will hollow grind the blade somewhat.
After you have finished this process take a good new file preferrably one not too coarse and if possible remove some of the material from the damaged edge. Do not pull backwards on the file but lift it on each stroke because this will dull the file very quickly. If the steel is quite hard clamp the blade in a vise, and pull the file along the length of the blade parallel with the cutting edge, you will see that the file will bite into the hard steel better, but be careful in the process. I use a two sided oil stone to finish up the edge first using the coarse side and then the fine side.

What I have done sometimes if there is just one nick in the blade I would sharpen the nick and not remove all the material as outlined above. Eventually the nick will disappear as you continue to sharpen the blade.

I hope this helps

NH

Hello Northern Hewer,

Great advice. I can visualize your instructions. I'm glad you suggested doing the final 1/4" by hand.

Somewhat off topic, I just learned how to sharpen countersink bits from a shipwright friend. Learning the correct method is a skill for a lifetime!

Thanks and Happy New Year.

Zach

As a gentle reminder and one that can't be repeated to many times, a file only cuts one way, so pick it up on the return stroke, this applys to all files, triangular files for your hand saw, round files for your chain saw, flat files for your axe. It's also reasonable to use as much of the file on one stroke as possible. Start on one end of the blade pushing the file along the blade and ending up with the handle end of the file at the other end of the blade, with a skewing action of sorts. The idea is to use the whole file so it wears evenly. I hope I haven't mucked this up to baddly. Here is an other question on filing. Do others file into the blade or away from the blade? Tim

Hi all:
Well I have never filed into or against a cutting edge always with it, now it will leave a burr on the edge which will need to be gently honed away

Nh