Beards and Axes

Some folks asked me about my axe and related old tool collection...so I uploaded some pics and posted. This is not extensive. Its about half of my collection. Ive spent years and made contacts with various antiques dealers trying to find axes. I love them simply because they are so utilitarian and indispensable...If you could only take one tool...youd be wise to take an axe.


Left to Right:

A mid 19th French axe, huge, about 16 inches across

A 14th-16th century axe, German

A 17th or early 18th century New England/Canadian trade axe (heavy sucker)

A 18th century axe

A paper cut out of a jamestown axe I replicated



Next Row...

A 16th or 17th century German axe, hewing

A 17th or 18th century hewing axe, Eastern Europe

A Canadian hewing axe, cast steel, probably 19th century

A 19th century axe, hewing

A replica of 18th century version...my handy dandy hatchet

A similar hand forged axe, date unknown. Could be 17th or 18th century, not sure

Bottom Row

A hand forged multip purpose scy-axe, probably 18th or 19th

A railroad brush cutter 19th century

A french "shoulder axe" (bloody name escapes me at the moment)

A nice adze from Transylvania 18th century

A 17th or 18th century light adze or hoe, English










Second picture is my froe, hand forged from a piece of spring steel. Great for splitting planks. Its almost 18 inches long. And one of my hand hewing axes which I mounted on a longer handle...and it works great. But I had to do a lot of repair on this hewing axe as it was in bad shape. I dont usually use my antiques, ie put them to use as I feel they earned retirement and would prefer to build new ones, but this guy was repaired via poor weld so I felt the liberty of redoing the job and giving it a second chance.

And finally below...the "bearded axe" (yours truly a bit glazed after hours of work)


Now shown are a few of the axes Ive forged and a very rare 12th or 13th century axe which Ill try to remember and photograph.


Well enjoy and feel free to ask me any questions.

cheers
Drew

I'm drooling.... OK I'm over it

Nice collection!

How do you like your broad axe on the long handle? I did that to one of mine, and I love it! It's authentic too

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/Rou...tinfo/367-2057/

It's my favorite hewing tool, makes quick work of rough-hewing a log.

You shouldn't have shown me that page, now I want more axes.

The "American Pattern" broad axe is a coopers axe, not a broad axe for working timber.

Dave, you can never have enough axes!
And I can't help but fell that I may be a bit responsible for them carrying the german pattern axes, they did that since I contacted them about getting some of Müller axes that they didnt carry (yes, they can special order for you!) And since that time, they started listing some of those axes on their website.

If you want to drool, have a look at the full Müller und Söhne line,
http://www.mueller-hammerwerk.at/hammerwerk/Images/produktuebersicht.pdf
They make just about every central European and French woodworking tool you could ever want. I really think they make a finer product than Gransfors, too. Their stated aim is to supply local populations with THEIR traditional tools, and not some standardized version of it. As such they have so many different axe patterns... They definitely are the only source today for a lot of Old European tools, including the elusive French Besaigue. But... they are kind of expensive too...

I wondered about that American axe, but didnt think too long about it, since I was after the German axes.

Well, in truth my hewing axe (I think thats what your referring to) is actually for a single hand..and I was going to cut off the handle but found I liked the added length. Its not a heavy hewer, but works fine for logs or pieces under 12 inches or so.

I hear ya Dave, it is addictive (Im ready for the zombies). I love axes but in general am a sucker for anything hand forged. Just bought a nice 18th century barkspud.

Im real leery about names for these suckers in large measure because I tend to study the late medieval and early colonial eras so the cross-over makes tool identification/naming a bit tricky. Ive seen so-called coopering axes in manuscript pictures showing timberframers, wheelwrights, cabinet/furniture makers, basket makers...the works.

At one time - building on the shoulders of Eric Sloane and company- I tried to classify axes based on shape, size and era. I had gathered dozens and dozens of images from the 14h-18th century and found that just when I thought I was seeing patterns, something would throw off that theory.

Now I think two things existed. First, good tools get passed down from generation to generation for at least a century or more before retired. And second, a good design is a good design, sprinkled with a bit of whimsy. Only when pulling back by three or four centuries do we start to see discernible differences. And yet even then Ive seen 8th or 9th century axes (what we might call viking) look suprisingly similar to 17th or 18th century ones; ergo a good design is a good design.

Not until cast iron axes in the mid to latter 19th century do we start to see large numbers of the same type of axe.

Some nice stuff, but YIKES expensive. Well, actually probably not that bad...but I cant see myself spending that much unless its an antique.

I also think there is a sort of exclusivity/novelty element involved in those prices...ya know ""German""" or ""Swedish"" axes or anvils or tools as if they are blessed by the tool gods. Since few places make them anymore, they can clearly charge a premium for their tools.

Hello,

The cost of a new compared to an old flea market axe is not as straight forward as it might first seem, at least in the case of a broad axe.

The axe I am using now is a fine Swedish double bevel hewing axe I bought new 12 years ago.

Typically, after 6 days of use I spend a half a day sharpening, (not including honing it in-between sharpenings). If it gets nicked that costs me an extra day to grind, sharpen and hone. And this is a double bevel, or two short surfaces.

I can imagine untold hours of lapping, on a not so ready available, properly sized lapping plate, to get the flat side of a rusty and pitted, if not superficially polished up, antique, or lets old, broadax that cost initially €100, polished decently. Then you are talking about an expensive axe.

On the other hand, and in no small part accessible because of the internet, there are many blacksmiths from Finland down to France and everywhere in between who are forging and offering many types of broadaxes that will cost you between €200 and €300. Oh yea, left or right handed versions too.

I like the idea of putting good old tools back to use, but in the case of - I qualify - a single beveled hewing axe, I don't see it as practical, (not to mention the desirability of hours on top of a lapping plate). Of course it can all depend on your idea of what constitutes sharpness .

Oh yea, Andrew Young, the word you were looking for is bisaiguë but in fact the tool is a Kreuzaxt.

Don, the situation is a little bit different in America.

All of the best modern tools come from German speaking countries or from Sweden, with Japan coming up next in line. America is, sad to say, a good ways back there.

But this was not always so

During the 1800's it is generally said that American blacksmiths, and later American industry, produced the best steel tools in the world, and these are still some of the best tools to be found by modern standards.

The steel used may be inferior to German tool steels, but the difference is in the process. The old tool makers were excellent forgers -they beat a lot of strength into the metal, and most important they had mastered the fine art of tempering. A Good tool from this era holds an edge like no other.

I have a Gooswewing broadaxe made in Pennsylvania some time around 1800 or so -I can surmise that from the way it is put together (assuring me it is hand forged before the 1830's) and the way it is decorated, clearly an early Pennsylvania Dutch product. This 200 year old axe will hold a keen edge every bit as good as my new Gransfors broad axe (which is today used as a joinery axe and not a hewing axe) And better than my Ochsenkopf Stichaxt, which certainly holds a good edge in its own right.

I have a few old axes that I bought from Europe, and I must say in comparison the quality of the temper is not nearly as good. But they are fine tools nonetheless and certainly usable.

That said, I have nothing against modern made tools. I have a few and intend to get more as the tool fund gets fat enough. I love old tools because I love old things in general, it it gives me a strong sense of connection to those who came before me. I love modern tools because I like practicality and function.

As far as cost, I paid about $250 for my Goosewing. In semi-restored (cleaned up, but still with the brown patina) and a good keen edge in fine working condition, it is worth well over twice that. Part of the reason for that is because of WHAT it is and when and where it was made. genuine PA goosewings can be worth a fortune. I never would have paid that much for another old axe, $100 is my usual top end of what I am willing to pay, and I prefer to pay less than half of that. I got a fine PA pattern broad axe that needed some minor retuning of the edge for $25, I could sell it today for maybe $150 to $200 (it is certainly pre Civil War) And can tell a similar story of my carpenters adze which was made in the 1830s. But in the case of the Goosewing it was exactly what I had been looking for, in excellent condition, and priced to sell. I knew exactly what I was looking at, and I don't think anybody else did. It also happens to be the most beautiful tool in my shop. Finely decorated along the non-functioning edges and on the front face. Clearly hand tooled, yet excellently made and finished. There are maybe 1 or two tiny spots that give away the fact that it is hammer forged, but otherwise it is almost immaculately perfect. The forge line between the bit and the body is so fine that the only indication that it is even there is the difference in grain quality between the steel bit and the wrought iron body. There is no seam. And oh yeah, it is a joy to hew with even though it is a left-hand bevel (which does not mean you have to use it left handed. I am right handed and almost find it easier to use a left hand bevel)

I spent some time today taking nicks out of two of my axes. I find the extra-coarse DMT diamond plate makes quick work of it. In initial prep of an old tool I use an angle grinder with a sandpaper flapwheel, being careful not to over heat the steel. For maintenance sharpening, I can work the primary bevel down to a wire edge and then put a secondary bevel and polish on the broad axe in about ten minutes as long as there are no huge chips.

Dave, I find the bench mounted belt and disc sanders to do a nice job in cleaning up bad rust pits and applying the bevel with its desired sweep. I use what is available, if I had a large hand held grinder I would surly give it a go. I keep a dip bucket very close by. As I am holding the tool, without gloves, I can feel the heat, I want a cold feeling on the steal. I have used a squirt bottle, too. With a hand held grinder you should take extra precaution to keep the work cool.

It is interesting to see the nick lines left in hewn surfaces. They all didn't spend hours taking the nicks out of the edge. They touched up the edge and went back to work. On this one frame you could see which timbers this axe was used on, through out the frame.

Nice link to some edge cutting tool, DL.

Hello,


That is what I was getting at and not the idiosyncrasies of sharpening in general. And how one maintains tools is really very personal so I wouldn't intrude there either.

But when I first get hold of a tool whether new or used I want to have it technically in shape and a blade with either machining marks or showing pitting from age cannot be given a sharp edge. It is technically not possible. If you want to get a true sense of that, try doing your best sharpening on an old straight edge razor and then shaving with it.

My rule of thumb for power tools is that as long the tool is cool enough to touch, you are safe. I can only take maybe 120 F, so that's really safe.

I don't get too worried about nicks in my axes. As you said, in pretty much all of the old hewn timbers you can how many nicks there were. I've even found timbers that had smooth cuts on most of it, then a nick right after a knot.

I've touched up old straight razors before. That is an art in itself. Nothing like waving 4" of the sharpest thing you'll ever see past your eyes and nose.

This may seem like blasphemy to some but *gasp* an axe does not need to be razor sharp, not even a smoothing axe. It may help a little bit, but it is not nearly as important as with a plane or chisel. And I really don't notice a whole lot of difference between the performance of my axe when smooth and when it gets a nick in it. So what if it leaves a tiny line on the timber? Unless the nick is a big dent, I usually don't worry about it and let it gradual disappear on its own over successive sharpenings or the occasional retouching of the bit to reestablish the proper bevel.

My general procedure is to sharpen all of my tools before I put them away, and touch them up when I get them out to use them as well as once or twice while using them for a long period.

A barber in Thailand once used a straight razor on my neck when cutting my hair, it was a wild experience. That guy was amazing though, you'd go sit down, and he was done.

I find a noticeable difference in the effort and quality of cut with my broadaxe if it isn't sharp. I'm not too worried about nicks, however.

Here's some of my axes, don't know if I've ever put pics of them up here or not.

First, Das Breitbeil. My favorite axe, Pennsylvania Dutch Goosewing. What looks like a crack in the second picture is actually just a spot of oil.




The next, my long handle hewing axe. When hewing by my self, I use this axe to score and hew to the line whilst standing on the log. Then I clean up with my goosewing.



my adze. works quite nicely.


a pile of axes and axe related tools, though not all of them.
From the top left corner clockwise:
1 Rough hewing broadaxe, German Pattern
2 Gransfors Swedish broadaxe, universal.
3 Hudson bay pattern axe made by estwing. Kind of a general purpose axe.
4 12" PA pattern broad axe
5 Froe
6 Hungarian pattern side axe.
7 Stossaxt/stichaxt. Is it an axe or a chisel? No one knows... It is used somewhat like a froe (but in my opinion works better and is more versatile)
8 Adze
9 old stanley hatchet. Used for miscellaneous odds and ends because I'm not worried about it.
10 Hungarian carving hatchet.
11 Another goosewing. This one is mostly for decoration (i was real cheap) but can be used and does work well enough.

Most of these axes are used largely for joinery, carving, and other detail work. As you see there is no felling axe among them, because I don't have one. I don't have one because I have yet to find use for one.

Anyone have an idea of what these axes were used for:

http://www.ebay.at/itm/alter-Axtkopf-Bei...15#ht_500wt_758

I've seen a bigger one with a 12" handle, a few the same size and lots of slightly smaller ones.

Hello up there. As we also have beards and bearded broad axe also has something to do with beards...wished to share with you some latest work what we have done in traditional hand hewing tool making.

One is Goosewing replica of Baltic traditional finishingg hewing axe lines. Ornament from one old Austrian goosewing axe. We have done research on many Austrian axe ornaments, also on D L Bahler's. So finally we made ornament after one about 250-300 years old Austrian goosewing.

Bearded broad axe made as union depending on some old Baltic and Finnish historical broad axe research.

Both axes are laminated steel, Rockwell 59-60 HRC. North European elm handles.

See the pics there:

Wow! How much is the one in the last photo?

that is just beautiful...

very nice!

Hi Dave. I do not wish to look as an advertiser here, we are just a small crew of craftsmen. We make woodworking hand tools. Soon there will be our website up. The particular goosewing we have sold for $350.

Let us know when your website is up! I'm very impressed with the axes you have shown on here and the Forestry Forum.

Ok, I will post a thread when our web will be up, if moderators will allow me. We are making also heavy duty timber framing chisels and slicks with hardness of HRC 64-65.

Hello nebruks,

Do you know this description of forging these Scandinavian axes?





There are a few more if you would like to see them, let me know.

Greetings,

Don Wagstaff

Don, I'd love to see more of this. I've often wanted to dabble in the art of axe making some time.

How will you sharpen the chisels at 65 rockwell? I would also be worried about brittleness.

The hardness is about 63-64 HRC. It is what 9260 steel reaches after hardening, tempering and annealing. There are many carpenters tested them and feedback is good. Of course hard to sharpen on regular stones, but diamond stones can do the job.

Thanks Don very much. I found them in your album and downloaded all of them in higher resolution than here in the forum.

Most of the Japanese chisels also do have hardness of HRC 63-65

Hello,

Well, I don't know how you did that but I'm glad it worked out for you.

Greetings,

Don Wagstaff

Check out Mike Beaudry Hewing with a John Neeman Bearded Axe:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGy31E63Ems

It is quite the endorsement. Good job John and Jacob!!!

Here is a link to the product page of their tool site:

http://www.neemantools.com/en/products/axes--adzes