Granberg 555b Mini Mill

Hello,

Anyone out there have any experience with the Granberg 555b Mini Mill?

Really looking for a pros/cons review of it.

Thanks.

Chainsaw mills seem like a lot of work. Are you building in a remote area?

Yes. Lots of open space in the woods and will be setting up some sort of waist high stand to get good ergonomics. What is your experience with this exact model, TIMBEAL?

Regards,

No direct experience. But I do run a band mill.

I was just thinking that in my original question, I should have been clear that I intend to use the Granberg 555b mini mill to mill (4) 35 foot 10x10 beams.

I used a similar type of mill once. It was very hard pushing the saw through the wood.
What type of wood will you be sawing 35' long?

Jim Rogers

Its doable, just don't go blindly into the night.

Try a hewing axe. More fun.

Jim-
I'll be milling Rock Oak, and using a Stihl MS650 saw, thanks for the reply and advise. BTW- you have some great YouTube videos, safety first and efficientcy. No chance I could get you to do one on chainsaw milling?

timberwrestler-
I'm sure it would be, but a good axe is hard to find.

I reworked both these hatchet into hewing axes. I have not cash involved in them, both gifts if I recall. Keep an eye out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUSwEJOyLIQ

A tree service friend of mine just got a chain saw mill, but it's missing the end handle. He's suppose to get it and then we're going to try it. I will take some videos if we do.

Jim Rogers

Woohoo! Something I actually know about!



Alright, the G#555b is basically not what you are going to need for milling logs into beams, unless you already have a Granberg MK-III(or even the II) or the base model G#777

The G#555b is primarily used for taking the edges off of a 'flitch/slab'. There is no way that I know of to attach the metal track and get clean, flat, consistent rips with a chainsaw down a log.


Take a look at this for the basic model: >>>>> Basic G#777 mini mill <<<<<

Better model: >>>>> Better mill G-Mk-II <<<<<

I own and use a Granberg MK-II 36" set-up. It will produce very nice, flat, straight cuts !IF! it is set-up correctly for the first pass. With a cut as long as you are requiring, be sure to make every possible attempt to make the 'guide' straight and flat(remember the weight of the saw will be riding on it also....and if you lean onto the guide it has to absorb that as well.)

I own and use a Granberg #555b and #777.
These are very light and portable, and I don't use them as much. Both have their places in milling. Both a high on the required labor/effort side of things. Both are better then a gym membership for getting into shape!

I own and use a WoodMizer LT-28....why? Because chainsaw milling is HARD, time consuming and produces a LOT of waste. Every two cuts with a chainsaw mill using 3/8ths ripping chain leaves a 3/4 board laying on the ground in dust. It's also important to say that the one single cut you'll be making in a log with a chainsaw is the same amount of time I'll spend cutting the entire log into dimensional 'stuff'(maybe even less if the log is 34" diameter and 16ft long)
Can I make a 35ft long cut on the WoodMizer? No, not without a LOT of weird labor and 'rigging'. Then again, I couldn't possibly dream of moving a 35' 10x10 beam either
Can I take the WoodMizer LT-28 to a log in the woods? Yes, well within reason....it is portable but it is not a goat. A nice path through the timber would be required.



Panther also makes a chainsaw mill attachment, as I have no experience with it....I will not say anything more then that. I have seen his milling set-ups on YouTube...
I'm sure there is at least 100 YouTube videos showing 'homemade' milling rigs that are worth looking into, but I'm not a metal working kind of fella and I don't know what I would be looking at to build one.


Good luck! Love to see photo's if you make any with the #555b on a log that size


Scott (punish me not please) B