windows and doors

info needed on connecting doors/windows to framework and possible links to specialty hardware connections for this application. I'm building a t'frame with lots of glass.

Hi Joel. I learned something cool today about doors. When you connect the studs surrounding the jamb and peg into beam, make sure you peg the tenon towards the jamb. Otherwise, if you pegged the tenon away from the jamb, the shrinkage could have effects on the side you do not want it to.

Welcome,
mo

Thanks for the input mo, though I'm not sure I understand what you're saying. the frame I'm working on will have no siding, nor inside paneling. Just windows and sliding doors attatched to the frame, possibly via cutting out of the posts and headers and inserting more stable lumber to attatch the sliding doors to. I'm worried about shrinkage and movement.
thanks again,
joel

Joel:
If the frame will have no siding why would you need a window?
What are the walls made off?
Jim Rogers

Jim,
The frame is a "family room" which is connected to the rest of the house. The posts and beams will be exposed inside and out. Glass will be the infill, primarily. Some fixed glass and a number of sliding doors. These are being "let in" to the frame work by a series of routing and rabbetting. Essentially, this is a glass house with a timber framework.
joel scott

What type of wood is the frame?
How dry is it?
It may continue to shrink for many years, and careful planning will be needed for inserting glass windows in frames.

What shape is the plan of the room?

I would think Joel would need only the straightest of trees with absolutely no twist. Cut boxed heart and kiln dried. Then he would have to figure out how to seam the glass and the timber. I am only SPECULATING, what do you all think. This is interesting.

Maybe glu-lam is the way to go.?

I think the brits set glazing into green oak, searched a bit but didn't quite find what I was looking for... here is a starting point:
http://www.carpenteroakandwoodland.com/blogs/2006/november/glazing-onto-green-timber-frames

The frame is of Cypress. Bone soaking wet, and big. Most timbers are either 8"x 12" or 12"X 12". Totally oversized and guaranteed to shrink and move. The room is (drum roll please), 30 feetx 80feet, two large dormers intersecting the frame in the center. One dormer creates a gable end, the other is a large bump-out porch (this one is filled in by conventional framing, then you walk into the porch). Where I mentioned rabbetting before, and "letting in", we're also applying a compressible(and later, expandable) gasket to help seal the perimeter's of the glazing. Fixed glass will be measured to each opening independently.
joel

thanks for the website mark.
joel

Anyone have any pointers for suspension hardware which allows for some settling or shrinking of timbers with which I could fasten doors to a frame?

Joel

do not know of any hardware but if you foam the door in place it would allow for shrinkage and the foam is strong enough to hold the frame in place. Done it many times.

blowfoam rules!!!!!

just wanted to bump this topic back up and see if anyone has tried direct glazing. I like the idea of frame glazing and would like to hear from those who have done it. Afterall, what better way to frame a pc of glass than to timberframe it

That's really similar to a detail from Rupert Newman's book Oak Framed Buildings. Is that where you got that?

I would feel pretty comfortable using a system like that. The systems where the actual frame is exposed inside and out are not a good idea in my opinion.

I agree, the glass on the outside is the way to go, just like in the pic (courtesy of www.timberstructures.net ).
I think this is a great technique and would love to learn more about it.

hey frwinks, i like that frame below your name. Do you have a bigger image?

I noticed your image in your last post has "green oak timber". thinking about what it will do leaving gaps and such due to shrinkage of the post. Is the air dried board to prevent the connections from turning into a sieve? I wonder if a relieving groove would help somehow?

mo, thanks for your reply The pic of direct glazing is taken from the only site I found so far on this topic. I'm hoping someone who's done it may offer more info on the shrinkage/checking issue as well as construction and sealing. I'm sure there's more to it than the pic shows.
Gabel, you mentioned Rupert Newman's book Oak Framed Buildings. Would you recommend picking it up to learn more about direct glazing?

As for the frame, it's a Mark Davidson
It'll be mostly pine with a mix of hemlock, oak and doug fir.

Rupert's book is definitely worth picking up if you are at all interested in English timber framing, scribing, direct glazing, or a number of other topics. you can get it directly from him at his site (google Westwind Oak) or on Amazon.

still haven't picked up Rupert's book, but found enough info and detail drawings in Tedd's book to get me going on this....
page 198...
http://books.google.ca/books?id=AX9nvlKG...;q=&f=false