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interior wall finish at timbers #5085 12/17/02 04:47 AM
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Patty & Craig Offline OP
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We have been looking everywhere for details for getting a clean edge on gypsum wallboard when it butts into timber members or braces.

Anybody have a direction to point us for a good detail? We have several TF reference books but we haven't seen much information yet on interiors. Thanks.

Re: interior wall finish at timbers #5086 12/17/02 02:01 PM
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Leon Buckwalter Offline
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The easy answer is to not butt drywall to timbers, but to run it behind the edges. Also, I'd try to cut brace mortices at the center of the main timbers rather than hold them to the back edge, so painting and finishing is simplified.

If you have to butt sheetrock to timbers, ask your supplier for J-channel to wrap the edge of the rock [cut away the tapered edge of the sheet, or you'll see the taper]. At least one brand has a flange that extends outward to protect the timber while painting, which can be torn away afterward. If you can fasten the J to the timber but let the leg behind the drywall float, shrinkage of the timber won't open up a crack between the two [you will have to touch up the paint as the J pulls toward the edge of the rock, unless you prepaint before installing].

Re: interior wall finish at timbers #5087 12/17/02 04:06 PM
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Patty & Craig Offline OP
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Thank you-I will look at some GWB suppliers to find accessories that will work. I want to expose framing on both sides of the partition when possible, including the braces, and I have seen the walls framed that way, so it must be the j channel method you have described. It would help to tour a home or two and remember to look and see how that is handled. It is a little difficult to understand without a photo however you have pointed me in the right direction.

Re: interior wall finish at timbers #5088 12/19/02 04:18 AM
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John Milburn Offline
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PattyorCraig, If your sheetrock is going to but your timber I agree that J mold is the way to go, there are two styles of J mold that I have used, standard "J" and tapeable. The end result with standard will show a small 1/2" beed weather you use metal or plastic. Tapeable will give you a cleaner and more pleasing end product.Before installing the sheetrock and J beed put 2" wide "Blue" painters tape on the timber so that the edge of the tape will be 1/8"-1/4" behind the edge of the j mold. When you spread the joint compound the tape will prevent the joint compound from sticking to your timber. After each application of compound run the point or edge of your knife down between the tape and j bead. This will give you a 1/16" crisp, neet, and fine line,that will always look great even after the sheetrock and timber dry and shrink.Try not to leave the tape on too long, it may be more difficult to remove, Good luck, John...

Re: interior wall finish at timbers #5089 12/19/02 06:19 AM
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Patty & Craig Offline OP
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Thanks for the additional information, I think I am getting the idea. smile -Patty

Re: interior wall finish at timbers #5090 01/02/03 08:36 PM
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Simon Flynn Offline
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When I was just a kid one of my first experiences in a reproduction colonial was seening the sheetrocking/plaster process. All a remember was a metal web-like material with plain old plaster smeared over it. The backing was foam insulation board. I dont remember any bracing being exposed. I myself would like to know more about this and any type of plastering process for timber frames so I figured I'd join your discussion. Sorry my childhood memory is just a bit of nostalgia for something I liked the look of and a just a bit short on product names and plaster consistencies. I suppose my question is: Is gypsum board better or is hand done plastering a realistic alternative. Does it take too long, etc. Thanks.


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