What do you consider the best products and how do you apply them? Rollers, HVLP? Of course I'd like one that protects against water or metal staining, is easy to stain later, dries quickly, and is cheap. What about a wax sealant for end grain cuts?

Thanks,'kurt

I use AnchorSeal by UC Coatings for end grain sealer. It's a wax and seals the ends and forces water to evaporate out through the surfaces of the timbers to help prevent end checking. I apply this on the ends as soon as the timbers are cut from logs, and after joints are cut, and the wax helps them slide together. Jim

Thanks Jim. Do you use a sanding sealer to protect the timbers during transport and erection?

Kurt

No, I have no experience with a sanding sealer. Hopefully others will advise you/us on this subject. Jim

According to Bob Flexner, in his book Understanding Wood Finishing, sanding sealer is merely a finish with mineral soap added to make sanding easier - the soap keeps the sandpaper from clogging up. It also tends to cure faster, so that you don't have to wait as long before recoating. It does no better at sealing the wood than a finish without the soap, and actually keeps the second coat from adhering as well. It's used in factory settings where they are willing to sacrifice some quality for speed. The name is unfortunate, as it leads people to believe that this is the best product to use for sealing. But the fact is: all finishes are sealers. CB.

I agree it's desirable to give timbers some protection during transport and raising. The #1 criteria I look for in a finish material is ease of touch-up, so that spots that are dirtied, chipped, or stained can be addressed without redoing entire surfaces. I avoid products that form a surface film [such as polyurethanes] because when damage or deterioration occurs, often all traces of the old finish have to be removed because new doesn't blend well with old. I've used primarily penetrating oil finishes, you'll find products made by a number of manufacturers. Low-toxicity products using citrus oil solvents are available. Products containing linseed oil may provide food for mildew organisms. Application can be by saturated rag [wear rubber gloves], roller, brush, spray, etc.

I've avoided using wood stains because, when inevitably you've got to make a repair, it's near impossible to get a good color match. Repairs to natural wood may not blend initially because hue changes with age and UV exposure, but with a little time, most repairs will blend in well.

I've also used Anchor Seal on end grain with excellent results.