I'd like to question the group about how to lap the back of big chisels and slicks.
I spent quite a few hours restoring an old 2" ontario framing chisel (Warnock) and I'm ready to start on a 3" slick (also a Warnock).
The best method i found with the framing chisel was to use rough sandpaper glued to glass, and replace the sandpaper every 10 minutes or so.
The main problem i found with this method was that the sandpaper has a loose surface and the chisel got rounded at the edges....
What i would be looking for is a fast way to take off hard steel while leaving the edges flat.
thanks,
-Mark in Ontario.

Mark,

You should not need to sharpen those slicks as you are about to give them to me!



But what I like to use is one of those 1" x 30" belt sanders Available from Canadian Tire. They also have a 5" disk on the side and you can use various grits as needed. For an awesome edge I order some 1000 grit 1"x30" belts from Lee Valley for the final sharpening. That is for slicks. For hand sharpening 2" chisels I would suggest waterstones for the final sharpening but the sander for rough shaping the steel.

Bruce,

i wish i had a few extra to give away.......
good old framing chisels and slicks are hard to come by, and sometimes you can spend hours restoring them and as soon as you put them to the wood you realize you've wasted your time.
Somewhere along the line the steel can get burned or perhaps the maker wasn't up to the job that day.
However i feel that i'd rather waste my time fixing old tools than waste money trying to find new ones (generally speaking)
-M.

To All:
Our current list of tools available has 10 slicks on it, in a price range from $150US to $75US. These slicks have been cleaned sharpened and some have had new handles installed.
This list is shown on another thread in this section and it is usually update regularly.
I'd be happy to send anyone a photo of any of the slicks on hand.
Jim Rogers

Although it seems like overkill, I also use a stationary belt sander for the initial phase of most chisel rehab projects. Keep a bucket of quenching water next to the sander, and don't let the workpiece get hot. I keep the heel of my hand right near the tip of the chisel to hold it flat against the belt. I know right away when it's starting to warm up . After the coarse shaping is done, I use a Tormek for the bevel, and 220-grit sandpaper-on-glass for the back. Then I finish by sharpening as usual, which is progressing thorugh a series of 6 grits of finer and finer sandpaper, up to 1500. I have a large plate of glass, with all the grits laid out on it, so it goes pretty fast. Compressed air keeps the grit from building up. The finer grits of sandpaper can be found at an auto parts store. All sandpaper should be closed coat (designed for metal work, not wood work).

Everyone in my shop uses 4"x10" DMT diamond plates to flatten the backs of chisels, slicks, and plane irons. We work with Japanese tools exclusively and only flatten the area directly behind the cutting edge, which is extemely hard, so I dont know how they would work with western tools in that application. A two sided plate with black(extra course) for flattening our waterstones and blue(course) for flattening blades and removing small nicks almost negates the need for power tools. When we get huge chips then we might use a grinder with a ruby wheel to put a hollow grind on a blade which makes for quicker material removal.

How does Warnock compare to Witherby?

Thanks,
Dan