I am new to the timber frame craft and I will be attempting my first frame on a small out-building this summer. Can anyone recommend a decent brand name hand saw? Vintage works for me, even if I have to have it sharpened and set. I do not want to spend hundreds, however, I aint buying one at Homedepot either! Can anyone help a novice in Ohio?

I have a Shark Corporation Takumi Ryoba 10-1/4" General Carpentry Double Blade Saw that I am very happy with. I prefer the Japanese style pull saw for most applications. It runs about $50

i also would recommend trying a japanese saw
i've gotten saws from tashiro's that are very good and reasonably priced
here is the web address...http://www.tashirohardware.com/
i recommend the timber blade/king rip blade with a king handle
check it out
-Mark in Ontario.

Though I too, own a Royoba and do recommend at least one as part of your kit, as a practitioner of traditional layouts, on timber of often irregular surface, rough, hewn and naturally curved pieces - I use handsaws daily, and want to put in a good word for western pattern saws.

There in Ohio the pickings are easy in the antique markets, and that is where you’ll find saws of superior quality – Geo(ff) Bishop ~ made there in Ohio – Atkins ~ made next door in Indiana, and of course older Disston’s are manufactures (but not the only) to keep an eye out for.

Look for blades which still have plenty of heel (distance from handle to teeth) a belly (the center is lower than the ends) will bend without kinking and while bent will sing (superior steel has a better tonal quality and will resonate longer) > I’m serious, play a little then try on something newer < Older saws always have an elegant look about them and are rich in fine details – carved handles - ornate rosettes – swept backs & nibs are all indications one deserves a closer inspection.

Choose a sharpening service which uses a filing machine not a grinder, or better still, find
someone to teach you to sharpen.

A hand saw, well tuned and in competent hands is an amazingly efficient tool.

“A good rip saw can earn a man a good living on any planet blessed with trees”
- Roy Underhill

Thank you everyone for the input. I will probably add a Japanese pull saw to my kit, But what I really want is a good vintage saw. They just do not make things anymore like they did. No style. I have my eye on two Disston's. What is a good TPI for cross cutting and rip sawing the tenons ?

Ok, I bought a Japanese 15" 10TPI Shark pull saw and did some crosscut playing around on a green 4"x4". I cannot get a straight cut? I then get out my off the shelf Craftsman 14" 8TPI and I was able to cut clean and straight? The Japanese blade is real thin compared to the Craftsman and that saw just wants to bear off the line? What am I doing wrong ?? or does it just take some getting use to? Help again in cold & wet Ohio.

just like a japanese carpenter with a western saw, i imagine.
the japanese blades are more flexible and can cut curves if you want, they will definitely make a straight cut with some practice.
-M.

Jeff:

Without too much practice with a western saw, you can stay on the line on both sides of the timber, even the side you can't see. I find that with the eastern saw, I only want to be advancing the kerf on the side that I can see - the side with the handle. This means switching sides, or rotating the timber to cut the other side. I'm probably over generalizing, but it seems to me that the eastern tools require more finesse (and thus more practice) on the part of the carpenter, with a commensurate reward. CB.

In answer to your first question...
It is far harder to find timber desireable TPI's than it is healthy steel. With enough heel you can always have a new set of teeth cut, but modern machines/s-svcs cut in a strait line and the absence of that belly does diminish efficiency.

3 TPI is the Holy Grail for rips - uncommon and expect to pay accordingly - look for 4's don't pass up a good 5

3 1/2 - 4 1/2 is your target for crosscuts, most in this catagory were marketed as "docking saws" to sawmills to buck/dock stock to length quickly, these often have metal handles and are 30" as oppossed to the more common 28's & 26's - again don't pass up a good 5

I'll answer your second question with another question - Is this a Bic/disposable version ?

Thank you everyone. I am one of those guys that had to have and did everything in the past with modern POWER tools, The bigger the better! Crafting with hand tools is therfore, somewhat new to me. I will learn given the time. The same goes for this new building, I could throw in some poles, girts, trusses and be done in two weeks. I quess I am now slowing down in my older age and beginning to take note in the craftsmanship and rich detail of our past architecture.

I have located a vintage Atkins 5 1/2tpi 26" saw, never used, still in original packaging. Would this be a good one to add to my kit and any idea on a fair price to pay?