Good afternoon.

I want to build a small timber framed shed this summer in my back yard. The village code says that I cannot have anything over 144sq ft. Does anyone have a reccomendation where I can find plans for a simple timber framed shed within this size restriction??

Thanks!

Dan

Dan,
Pick up a copy of Jack Sobons book " Timber frame construction" There are plans in there for a shed. A little larger than your code restriction, however, can be modified.

Thank you Jeff. But I don't have the engineering knowledge to resize those plans.

Dan

you don't need any engineering knowlege, just mathematical knowlege. The timbers are already oversized for the shed example in Jack Sobon's book. So you just need to change measurements, not timbersizes. I would recommend using the timbersizes in the example- you'll like them.
In this case if you need a 144 square foot building let's say you'll build it 10 X 14 feet
so instead of the bents being spaced eight feet apart you space them seven feet apart(or six and eight feet)
instead of 12 foot wide bents make them 10 feet wide.....
the same number of braces should be good.
if it seems beyond you to resize the measurements, find a math wizz or an old carpenter for some help, shouldn't take long
-M.

I picked up the book at the library. I think this shed plan will work. I will have to narrow it to 10 ft wide so it will fit in the 15ft median height regulation. It looks like I will frame it at 10x10 with a 4 ft porch on the front. To save a little cash and time, can I build this with a 2x8 joist floor? Secondly, is there any problem with using plywood as siding? I want to use tounge & grooved plywood with the t&g facing toward the inside for a finished look. On the outside, I want to put up cedar shingles. Any ideas? comments?

Thanks!

Dan

I agree with Mark, don't resize or change the size dimensions of anything, just shorten them to the lengths needed for your size building.
A pure traditional timber framer would be upset to hear that you've gone to all the work to cut the joinery on a frame and then side it with plywood.
Have you looked at the price of plywood lately? Boards (1") are now cheaper than plywood! And it will give the building a more traditional look, even if only from the inside.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Jim Rogers

stick framed floors are quite common under timberframes
just frame the mortises for your post-bottom tenons in the right spots and save your money, use it to buy a nice chisel!
alternately make no tenons on the post-bottoms and use big screws to attach the posts to the floor deck and framing.
btw i don't think shingles do well on a flat surface, you may need furring strips.
-M.

The plan that is in this book leaves quite a bit to be desired. Here are two concerns. If I wanted to put in a bank of windows, would I put in an additional 4x4 girts and posts to frame them in? Would I do the same for putting in the door? The plan also suggests a loft, but does not show any floor joists for the loft. What is the best way to put in the loft floor?

Oh, and where can I get a good chisel?

Dan

If you want to put in windows put the extra posts in first then the girts to them. You can do the same for the door frame opening.
The simple solution to the floor for the loft is to just place the joists on top of the center tie beam to the top of the end tie beam and then place your decking on top of these joists. No joinery just toe nail the joists to the tie beam and nail the decking to the joists.
Good Luck with your project.
Jim Rogers
PS. There is a list of tools for sale in the tool section of this forum.

It looks like it doesn't matter. I spoke with the putzes at the city building dept and they said that they will probably not approve a timber framed shed because they have no regulations on this style of building... Don't get me started on this folks....

Dan