I am going to be building my first timberframe this spring/summer and was wondering how long is too long between having the timbers delivered to erecting the frame. I am going to build this by myself and it is my first one. I will have help moving timbers and I also have the option of having one of my guys work with me for a few weeks (I own a building/remodeling company).

It took Jack Sobon four years to do his own barn......alone....

It took me about 6 months of cutting joinery and about 3 weeks to raise the frame. It was my first also and it was a 32x40 cape. I can't say I was completely alone, my father helped with a lot of the busy work, like cutting dovetails and brace mortises.

Just order the timber and start cutting. The time from when you recieve the timber to when you stand the frame probably won't be an issue. There was a recent post on how long to stack out the lumber before cutting. Look back a couple of weeks in this forum, there's were some differing opinions. That post will probably answer your question.

Hi i am New to the forum also, I am in the middle of trying to design my own timber frame that i Want to raise this Summer, My biggest problem is the roof system and witch one to use, that and sizing my post and Beams, Can you Help.

I was wondering if you could help me, I am looking to build
a tall post cape 28x40. i am having trouble with the roofing system i should use, that and sizing my timbers. I would love to cut my own frame, but having a little trouble.

Green Horn, what trouble are you having with the roof? Do you want to build with bents? How tall do you want your cape (ground to apex)? Lots of variables, need more specifics.

What are you using it for?

Green Horn, Steve Chapell's book Timberframe workshop outlines many of the calcualtions and guidlines for design. My being a mechanical engineer helped me to understand as I've worked with that stuff before. If you are not familiar with that stuff, I'd definitely recommend that you roughout the design you are looking for and the features you want. Make the floor plans/layout you desire, including placement of heating equipment, plumbing etc. Then take this to a qualified architect or timberframe shop with the engineering capabilities. Ultimately the person you work with will likely make recommendations for certain changes to improve your layout. Those who do this all the time have way more experience and can often suggest significant improvements. It is worth the money to work with an experienced engineer or designer or architect. They will often (should) save you money. You should work with some one who can do the necessary timberframe calculations to size beams, joints, and determine number and size of pegs. Even though I am a mechanical engineer, I will work with someone with more experience designing timberframe homes to suggest improvements. I will do all calculations myself, but I will also have another engineer do it too in order to check my work and assure things are correct.

I am New to this, I am looking to Build My Home. You could call it a tall post cape with a side porch or i have seen it called a Broken back Salt box, I also want to put a Shed roof dormer on the porch side. I have four Bents With Four Post looking to use a Common rafter roof system with Eave plates and midspan plates. My problem is sizing the Rafters, Plates, And Posts. I am using a 12/12 Roof, so this puts my 2 center post @ 22' Form floor to bottom of the Rafter, Not knowing the size of the midspan plate. The longest Span i have Form center to center is 13'. My other problem is do i need a Ridge Beam, What is the best and easiest Joinery For this GREEN HORN. Thank you For you time and i hope this is not to much for you. I have attached a few web pages to show you what i am looking to build, i also Have it sketched in CAD if you have CAD. ,
http://www.shelterinstitute.com/timbergallery/centerhall/index.htm , http://classicbarnhomes.com/plans/homestead1a.pdf

Green Horn you are doing exactly what I am just finishing. Brad has a some very good advice. Use Steve's book. I took his workshop, which I also highly recommend if this is your first t-f. I am also a mech engineer and recognized a lot of the calculations Steve uses. However, I did not do every load calculation for my home. Steve has already done them for you. I had a lot of the same spans that were used on the plans in back of the book (roof, 2nd floor, etc...) That took care of alot of the design work.

Secondly, when I thought I was done with my design I took it to a local timber frame shop and got some advice. I ended up redesigning my frame 3 times. Take your time in the design process, there's a lot to think through especially when you get to wall systems.

Lastly, if you're going to have a construction loan and build it yourself be aware that everything about a t-f home takes longer than a traditional stick built..... right from the footings up.

Brad, Thank you for the info. i will get that book you talked about, I think that I just need to do it. I am making it harder then it is. Just unsure on sizing post 8x8 or bigger rafters 6x8 or 6x10. top plates 8x10 or 8x12. Stuff like that. i am going to build a scale model. see if that helps.

thank you

Green Horn