Hi everybody, Was wondering specifically what cuts and operations (and how you go about doing it) besides tree felling you all use your chainsaws for in timber framing. I assume you would have to keep the tool finely tuned (sharpening the chain is a hard task for me to do right). Because of the inherent danger, the opening paragraph of the forum should be read after every post on this thread.

Thanks,

mo

Quickly, the opening paragraph is read and some times I am sure it references Me. I sharpen every thing my self. No gigs, free hand. It's the only way I would be happy with it. If you want it done right do it yourself. I use the chainsaw for cuts when I am not in the mood to cut via handsaw. Tim

Anything too large to cut with a power saw ... compound angles, backing bevels.

I have a gas chainsaw for outside work, mainly working along side the sawmill and bringing timbers to finished length. Inside the shop I have an electric chainsaw that gets used plenty. Ripping tenons in wonky timber, plunging some mortises where the chain mortiser can't, rough shaping of curves, brushing back the knotty spots. A good person to learn chainsaw technique from is a log cabin builder, those guys use the chainsaw a lot.

I'd like to hear more about cutting a mortise with a chainsaw!!

I use the chainsaw when the mortise happens on a round face. I did and English Tie Join frame where we left the inside face of the posts natural, just peeled the bark. The brace mortises up to the tiebeam were on the round face. Plunge cut into either side of the mortise, I think I may have used some red marker on the chainsaw bar to help guide the depth of cut... Plunge cutting is not recommended for the inexperienced user!
The photo below shows the frame, but not the round side of the posts.

plunge cuts take steady nerves. the way i was taught was to start with the bottom round of the tip of the bar, then slowly tilt the saw up to perpendicular (if that's the kind of mortise you want). as you come up to a straight plunge in you open up a little space above the bar so that the teeth coming back at you don't kick back. easier to control with an electric saw. keep the hand in front of the brake. wear a face shield.

pretty frame Mark. i like the understated, just-because through tenon.

Ooo-yeah. Crude curved braces can be added to the list. Right, Matt? Tim