Hello,

In paying attention to the details of stickering you will be successful having no unwanted long term effects and much of what that success entails has been mentioned. The only thing I will add is that the stickering wood must be softer, less dense, lighter - you get the idea - than the wood you are stacking. In most cases then fir is good. On no account use composite wood based materials.

Greetings,

Don Wagstaff

Today I would like some information on putting in double glazed sealed units into Merlin timber framed houses which is one of best timber houses . Detailed plans of sealed units pleasee. it Would be grateful to get some more info on this topic if you have more information about this share here...?

Check out this older thread.


http://forums.tfguild.net/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=27304&page=1

I'm a little worried though... I plan on cutting the frame over a number of years and storing the pieces as I go. So I'm having nightmares of going to put it together and the checking a twisting making it impossible to put it together.

I'm planning on building Jack Sobon's house, and I plan on starting with the floor system this summer. Is this the best plan? Should I start with other members first?

Also, I've heard that I should wait on cutting the braces until just before the raising because the 45 degree cuts are more likely to deform over time than other joinery that is either perpendicular or parallel to the grain.

Saw out the brace stock but wait to cut the tenons until it is close to raising time. I try to keep brace stock on hand for such purpose.

spruce is more apt to twist, white pine is more stable and not and issue, you can cut joinery for the most part and be fine with pine.

My Sobon frame (in spruce w/ oak braces) was originally cut and assembled as it progressed to ~3/4 complete then disassembled half a year later and shipped to me when I purchased the incomplete project. It then sat exposed in Mass ~6 monhts and covered in my field a couple of years before I was ready to erect and complete it.

I had surprisingly little trouble with twisting of the major timbers (possibly due to drying in an erected frame). I noted some twisting in the unfinished rafters (which spruce is very prone to do), and learned a few things about storing timbers the hard way.

1) Be sure to allow a decent air space between your tin and the timbers as well as between any tarping you have on the sides, and don't tarp all the way to the ground as it can trap moisture in.

2) I'd suggest laying down 30# roofing felt on the ground as a barrier between the timbers and any ground water.

3) Anchor Seal is worth it's weight in gold.

PS: Although Eastern White Pine is a great wood for timber framing the Sobon frame is NOT engineered for it (I don't know about SYP). When I ran the numbers for spruce they were scary tight, fine on the posts and OK for the beams but a little bouncier than code for the floor joists.

How about this combination:

- posts= oak
- braces = maple
- floor joists, tie beams, girding beams, plates - spruce or hemlock
- floor system - hemlock
- rafters - spruce/hemlock

I noticed that no one seems to like hemlock..is there a reason for this? I've noticed that is is dificult to work when dry, but I plan on cutting them green....


Thoughts?

also, can u recommend a good source for running the numbers? possibly an online calculator?

I'm planning on widening the house to 24' (vice 18') and would like to do the math. I plan on adding posts mid span beneath the girding beams to add support for second floor.

thank u all for your advice!

I attached a couple views for reference to my last post....
What are folks thoughts on adding collar ties to the rafters? Are they needed?

thanks,
Mike