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Searching for proper tool for bandsaw texture #30418 03/19/13 09:56 PM
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mo Offline OP
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Working in the rough.

Have had to plane some members to flush out. Too little to gain.

Anyway, anybody had success with a certain tool to resemble the band saw marks from the sawyer?

Re: Searching for proper tool for bandsaw texture [Re: mo] #30419 03/19/13 10:20 PM
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Dave Shepard Offline
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I've never tried to replicate band saw marks. I wonder what a toothed iron in a plane would do?


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Re: Searching for proper tool for bandsaw texture [Re: Dave Shepard] #30420 03/19/13 10:48 PM
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TIMBEAL Offline
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Mo, did you have to hand plane just the area around the joinery or was the whole timber run through a power planer?

Could you explain "to little to gain"?

As I think about it.... one member was fatter than the other, or thinner.

Hew it, and call it good. Or scrub plane, diagonal across the grain. Show off the fix, may be better than a attempt to hide it.

I have over set a tooth of two to make the surface look more band sawn. My setter sometime works too good.

Re: Searching for proper tool for bandsaw texture [Re: TIMBEAL] #30421 03/19/13 11:43 PM
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Jay White Cloud Offline
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Hi Mo,

There are several methods for this in museum restoration work, all are extremely arduous and best. I'm with Timbeal, scrub across grain with share blade and call it good. This is the fastest solution.

Quote:
Have had to plane some members to flush out. Too little to gain.


In the future, if you have to maintain a certain finish effect or presentation, switch from edge rule to line rule and you will not have to true your timber, (flush out?) in anyway.

Best of luck,

jay

Re: Searching for proper tool for bandsaw texture [Re: Jay White Cloud] #30422 03/20/13 12:08 AM
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mo Offline OP
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Hand plane it is. I often have to remind myself of the difference in perspective of a timber on the horses and that same timber joined to the structure in situ. Apples and Oranges.

Thanks for the replies.

Re: Searching for proper tool for bandsaw texture [Re: mo] #30423 03/20/13 12:56 AM
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bmike Offline
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Modern band saw? Or historic?

Try a bent tooth on a rough blade in a sawzall. Lightly drag across surface. You may have to play with it - pressure, perhaps using a piece of scrap to push the blade into the workpiece, blade size and pattern, etc.


Mike Beganyi Design and Consulting, LLC.
www.mikebeganyi.com
Re: Searching for proper tool for bandsaw texture [Re: bmike] #30426 03/20/13 07:12 AM
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D Wagstaff Offline
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Hello,

How about one of those cheese grater things, a sureform or something it could be called, though I've never been interested to use one they look like they could really gouge up a surface if you wanted. One could even bend a few teeth in for a custom look. I'd probably use the right axe though and leave it at that.

Regards,

Don Wagstaff

Re: Searching for proper tool for bandsaw texture [Re: Jay White Cloud] #30427 03/20/13 10:37 AM
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TIMBEAL Offline
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[quote=Jay White Cloud

In the future, if you have to maintain a certain finish effect or presentation, switch from edge rule to line rule and you will not have to true your timber, (flush out?) in anyway.

Best of luck,

jay[/quote]

Hi Jay, do you say this because all edges will flush out or if they don't flush out it doesn't matter? What happens if some wood is twisted or bowed while using line rule?

Re: Searching for proper tool for bandsaw texture [Re: TIMBEAL] #30428 03/20/13 02:52 PM
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Jay White Cloud Offline
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Morn'n TimBeal,
Quote:
...if they don't flush out it doesn't matter?
Yes, that's it exactly, (if I am understanding what "flush out," means in this context. With traditional line rule, (sometimes called "center line rule," here in North America because it is usually, not always, in the center of the cant) you visualize, design, and cut off a line that is actually deep inside the timber. This seems awkward at first, but once the method is understood, I don't know of any framer that I have taught, that does not start using it as there primary layout method, many exclusively.

From using it now my entire career, and the research I have done, it has been, and appears to be the dominated form of layout in the world. The oldest as well, second only to "scribe rule," which quickly changed to line rule in Asia millenia ago. This surprises many North American timber wrights, but least they forget, that in places like Japan, Korea and rural China, their timber culture is unbroken for thousands of years. Tooling, design and aesthetic is all off a middle line.

Quote:
What happens if some wood is twisted or bowed while using line rule?
With out going on, as I can do, the simplest answer to this is nothing. Even severely twisted, bowed, and even a combination, plus taper-such as in posts, have no barring on you joinery, placement or function. It is as if it doesn't exist for the most part. When working with this method, (and the concert of support techniques that go with it,) the use of almost all timber stock, live edge, and log is opened up to the timber wright.

One of the best examples of late I can give is as follows. 150 mm x 250 mm (~6" x 10") principle rafter stock with over 50 mm of twist in less than 3.6 m (12'). This material was rejected and I bought it for less that $0.10/bf from a local sawyer. Once laid out and joint the twist was no longer apparent, unless you studied well the frame it went into.

This will, and the supporting techniques, are a large part of the manuscript I am preparing for publication. It is basically an English version of Middle Eastern and Asian traditional timber wrighting modalities, applied with modern tooling methodology. Their forum is so much easier to navigate and write on, that is where I spend the majority of my "log in time." They also attract a lot of "lay-folk" to the timber framing craft, so I enjoy the exchange and teaching. I have a piece on there explaining the basics of this method with photos. Hope this was of help.

Regards,

jay



Last edited by Jay White Cloud; 03/20/13 03:06 PM.
Re: Searching for proper tool for bandsaw texture [Re: Jay White Cloud] #30432 03/20/13 09:30 PM
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mo Offline OP
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Big fan of snapped centerline here. The method I am employing. It divides the discrepancy (which usually will be satisfactory).

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