Considering economics can anyone give me some advice on manual beam boring machines. Miller Falls is out of my budget but how about a Boss, Ajax, Swan,...Many have different gearing set ups and many have repairs. Is this due to abuse or design differences. I see that some fold up and some are stationary. Any +/- to any makes or models would be appreciated. Can't find much info on the net about these old machines. Thanks - Ben

The difference between a Boss machine and any other machine is that a Boss
machine has two chucks to hold bits. One chuck turns at a rate of about 1 to
1 with the rotation of the handles. The other chuck turns at a rate of about
2 to one with the rotation of the handles, that is two rotations of the
handles to one rotation of the bit.
The slower rotation is said to be for hardwood.

The difference in price is based on purchase price as well as condition of
the machine.

You can ride down the street in a Ford or a Chevy (Snell and Swan machines)
or you can ride down the street in a Cadillac (a Miller Falls machine). It's
up to you.

All machines use bits with 1/2" shanks. However sometimes long bits won't
fit in some machines, that is in between the timber and the chuck.

There is a list of machines for sale in the tool section of this forum, and it will be updated shortly.

Jim Rogers

Hey Jim,

I've never that different chucks on a boring machine are geared differently for hardwoods. Makes sense though. I though the bits have different thread sizes according to hard vs. soft woods. Interesting.

Can anyone here attest to whether it makes a significant different in using one chuck vs. the another on something quite hard such as white oak?

Happy new year,
Greg

I have a Boss Double Eagle 2 speed (man. shift!) machine. The low speed is a SIGNIFICANT aid in boring harder woods. As for bits: They are, as most of us know, sometimes hard to find. Some hav cannibalized T-augers which are usually much easier to find. I have had very good results wit a Milwaukee 1 1/2" bit (new) which ist about 6-7" overall length. It fits nicely into the Boss. Good Luck!

Jim,

Thanks for the information on cutting beams. I will cut, stack, and sticker the beams indoors and do the joinery before shipping.

There is a plan out of Tedd Benson "Building the Timber Fram House" (page 184) that I will modify to meet my needs. I plan to increase the knee wall from 1'8" to 3'9" and increase the corner posts to center post on the bents from 12' to 14'. There is a high post cape frame in "A Timber Framer's Workshop" (page 192) that has the knee wall at 3'9" but uses a top plate and a wall plate. Tedd's design doesn't. If I'm a using queen posts into the collar ties with knee braces on all bents is the top plate neccessary? I will use dovetails for the purlins and knee braces on all girts (12' spacing between bents). Once I get the drawings made/modified I will have my brother check out the structural design but want to give him something that is decent to work with.

Also I posted a question about boring machines that you replied to. What do you know about AJAX. I believe they were made in the Midwest - Ohio. Are these decent machines.

Thanks for all the info - Ben

Here is a shot of a Boss machine:



About bits some have coarse threads on the lead screw some have fine. I've been told the coarse ones are for softwoods and the fine are for hardwoods.

I can't comment on your design other than saying some book designs need careful review.

An Ajax machine has a hollow chuck for adding bit extensions to the bit and therefore you could bore deep holes or holes through several timbers while there are in place, possibly for bolts or rods to be attached.

Jim Rogers
Jim Rogers Timber Designs
and
Vintage Tools of NE (New England)

The Boss has two speeds for different hole sizes, slow for the 2" for the mortice and fast for the 1" for the peg.
The Ajax chuck is hollow to allow the use of T-auger bits without cutting them off. Tom