OK; I know it's not traditional timberframing but I want to hear about your experiences working with Timberlinx connectors.

I'm looking at a project and wondering if they may be a good solution to some of the joints.

I am guessing that they work pretty good if you can get the damn holes to line up; so tell me how well they work and what methods you use to get it right.

I'm also guessing that some of you have not gotten the holes to line up; so tell me what the problems are. You would probably feel better for getting it off your chest!

Steve

Blasphemy!!

(Don't tell anyone, but I am curious, too.)

timberlinx sells a drill guide, but I find a pair of speed squares, or just the eye, works good enough for the holes, as there is some slop built into the system.... these are good strong connectors, not cheap though. I sometimes wonder if a good framer could produce a wooden connection for the same price as the timberlinx...

I've no firsthand experiance with them but have been in contact with a fellow who used them to build a small barn (he's got a thread on the project in another forum). The drill guide they sell is well made and makes hole alignment practically a no brainer.

The general concensus is that a good timber framer can produce most joinery fast enough (with a mix of power and traditional hand tools) to be more economical. If you've already invested in a chain mortiser you can definately make M&T joints more economically.

The Timberlinx system will simplify tension joints and complex intersections of multiple timbers, so in these joints it tends to be more economical. BUT... these are the fun (challenging) joints to layout and cut. To my mind the satifaction of a properly executed joint (espescially one I've just attempted for the first time)is far more valuable than time savings, however my focus isn't getting as many frames out the door/year as possible.

I've said it before on other forums and I guess I'll say it here too. GREAT SYSTEM! I've used it for sometime and have nothing bad to say it. They work as advertised. I use it for kingpost trusses. After marking and making my flush cuts,(including kerfing), I use their guide for a no-nonsense, simple connection. Very quick and very strong. Takes about 30 minutes from start to finish. If you are into production savings, the cost of the hardware far outweighs the savings realized in labor and miscuts. The old timers may have even used them if they were available way back when. (grin)

When you say you use them in Kingpost trusses: for the post to chord connection? rafter to chord? both?

Hi Steve,

I've used the timberlinx on 2 projects. One for some big trusses (rafter to bottom chord connection) and one to attach a timber mantle to a fireplace. They worked well but accuracy is real critical. If you miss drill the cross hole, the joint won't pull tight and I can't think of a fix. Your accuracy of the cross hole needs to be within about 1/4" which should be achievable if the hole isn't too deep and starts to wander. Timberlinx now makes a product which is essentially 2 half timberlinx which connect together with a piece of 7/8" redi rod to make a complete link. I would very highly recommend using this product over the regular timberlinx because it gives you the ability to readjust the center to center distance for the cross holes in case your drilling wasn't quite on. It also gives you a more flexibility on designing your joints because you aren't limited to the standard timberlinx lengths.

One application where I see Timberlinx being real slick (though I haven't tried it yet) is for anchoring a post where you need a hidden anchorage (ie: post is exposed on all sides). Basically you just set or epoxy the 7/8" redi rod in the concrete and screw on one of the half linx. Drill an end hole and one cross hole in the bottom of the post and set the post over the anchor. I think it is a cheaper and more elegant solution than a hidden knife plate.

So much for my free commercial for timber linx. All in all, I think there a good product for certain applications. Particularly, when you have an overly conservative engineer on the project would needs to have steel or when the tensile loads exceed the limits of a regular mortise and tenon joint. I think the tensile loads on the truss job we did were around 5000lbs which are starting to get out of the relm for a mortise and tenon joint.

By the way, the 'half' linx is called an A475.

the concrete connectors work well, I just used four of them for post bottoms last weekend.
timberlinx sells a concrete connector to go with the 1/2 links, and using a pair of 7/8 nuts and two plate washers(one nut/washer down onto the concrete and one nut/washer under the post bottom), I was able to adjust the hieght/level of the building after raising...

Hi Mark,

Do foresee any problems (ie: alignment) using the timberlinx to anchor a log post (14" diameter) as opposed to a timber post?