A painter suggested I try putting a end cap on drywall and leaving a 1/8th inch gap(shadow) where the drywall hits a beam or post. He had seen it in another house, but didn't know how.

Can anyone give me some advice on how to do this or point me where I can find out. THanks

PS The two local drywallers I tried had no idea.

Our standard practice is to leave a gap between the SIPs or stud wall, so that an inch or two of the drywall can be tucked behind the timber. With SIPs, the installers screw a narrow plywood spacer down the center of the timber to hold the panels out. CB.

Thanks Daiku...but we have two interior walls that go down the middle of beams and posts(so the timbers show from both sides)......the drywall will butt up to the beam and that is what we are trying to finish?..ideas?

PS On the outside walls we also spaced the SIPs out to slide the drywall behind...That is part of why we thought the gap would look fine.. A 1/8th inch shadow line just like the one by the wall.

Your drywaller may be referring to a bent metal strip also known as a "J-bead" that is most often used in blind corners. The trick is doing a good mud job to finish off with a crisp edge. Perhaps if you put a piece of masonite to hold the gap (and avoid random spackle spectaculars) and then slide the masonite out once all finishing is done. Hope this makes sense.

yes, J-bead. keep the drywall a bit short and use the J to push up against the timber. the J has a small return to help keep the plaster on the right side of the bead... this is a job for the more experienced taper on the crew.

Right - partition wall. I agree with the group - J-Bead. Maybe a strip of masking tape on the timber if you're nervous about getting mud on it. CB.

The way I intend to finish the drywall up against the wood work is to cut the sheet rock to size then tape the edges as to not get the gypsum on the beams. Tape the seams and finish the edges with a shoe/bead molding.

Don't remeber what it was called but our sheet rocker uses a plastic strip which fits between the timber and the sheetrock. He muds right over the top of it. It has a "zipstrip" that tears off after the mud has been sanded and leaves a really clean line.

The product is called "Vinyl Rip Bead". Dietrich Industries http://www.dietrichindustries.com/ is a supplier. Great product for finishing up against timbers.

I just slip masking tape part-way into the gap, sticky side against the timber. After all mudding and painting is finished, slice it off flush with a sharp knife. Looks very clean and tight.

Pete