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Re: Mill Rule v Square Rule [Re: Ken Hume] #13135 10/26/07 01:14 AM
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northern hewer Offline
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Hi derek and others

your comment about that the houses were of "framed timber" was correctly put, but you will notice no doubt in the text of the book that the tradesmen were not referred to as "timberframers" but "carpenters"

NH

Re: Mill Rule v Square Rule [Re: northern hewer] #13137 10/26/07 02:06 AM
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Timber Goddess Offline
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From what I understand, they were (are) one in the same - the German term Zimmerman means carpenter and timberframer...there is no difference. That's the way the homes were built. Timberframed by "carpenters".
(Would that make me a zimmerfrau?)

Re: Mill Rule v Square Rule [Re: Ken Hume] #13157 10/28/07 03:58 PM
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dave Offline
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Good Sunday to all, and to Ken Hume and his son, for a wonderfly bright breezy day in central New Jersey. Four days of rain (here) forced break in cutting, I can feel a rythem to the blue grass on Brookdale Community College and and to the way the sun goes right down the mortis I cut earlier, and how the rays of the oak truely radiate out of the heart of the wood post.It was a fairly clean cut 2.876 X 8-5/8 in center of post ABOVE the bent girt connection, 24 inches off (33-15/18 H) The beam /post connection was the first I cut right below it and today that hole does look like crap. No lie. The braces above are added because I wanted to reinforce the bent girt connection from tear out. I had also installed lower braces below the girt 36 in off, They were my first angled (45') open half lap. I didnt quite understand the concept of the tapered dove tail that should not pull out, but the 4x6 oak braces arnt ever going anywhere. They add so much regidity to the P/B connection it's visually amazing,

I guess I chopped about a dozen joints so far and I am finding my tools work better than me, but are open to ease of control. I can move large amounts of material (not unlike excavation of soils) and you can moderate taking chipsand shavings. I need to know what chisel works well at shaving the bottom of a deep mortise. I would bet a bent or crank chisel/
I have that makes i guess about twenty cuts on both M &T's. The tenon cut well enough w/ my Milwaukee circular saw. It takes a lot of control and the base is not square or straight. I avoid cutting too deep and I try to angle the cuts away from the lines so there is wood left for future cuts if required. Leaving the line should be a rule. My T's are all rough cut 2 in wide. A bit heavier than Benson mentions, but I liked their massiveness. I know understand the price you pay for ego is loss of strength in Post. A smaller t would ment less loss on the post.
I also cut birds mouth connections at the top of the posts (148 in. oal) which werr 30 in. over the top of the BG. girtTops are flush. The timbers I chose initially was a hickory 6x7 13 ft long. It was straight, well mottled w/ ingron bark rays, and probably stronger than the oak on hand. I actually started markimg and flipping it around,(w/ my torn shoulder)and I knew if I substituted any wood for the oak I would be comprimizing on a value that could only lead to other mandated future compromizezs you dont want to do. Rule 2, Never compromize. (at least with wood) wait. think, measure, think, roll it around,
When you finally getready to drill the first hole and take a cut, all you can do is think positive. It will work (the other rule 1)
I am plagued by two bad shouldes and 55 years of playing. I remeber when we were kids. We used to jump off trees and roofs just because we could. and not get injured too bad. I loved climbing way up in a wild crerry and rolling down over the honneysuckel vines that were thick next to our house in Little Silver. We were indestructable. Local youth club (gang) Kids.

I agree with you Ken, I need to think Japaneese. Locally (in Hopewell PA) the Nokashima Gallary demonstrates the concept of using the living wood as a partner in providing visible strength and beauty with comfort and functionality.
If I get outside now, I can finish the second cut into the BG, and cut the T's on the brace, I have abot 6 or 7 4x6's 12 ft that can make long braces, and also cut down for the short braces which are 4x5 all oak.
I fell into the timber by way of a guy clearing his pasture. 60 treeswere felled, pressure washed, and de-stumped. we cut a lot of fire wood, some I wish now I didnt waste.
There is enough hickory for a good project on it's own. It also burns like gasoline. I cut 8X8's 12' for benches to stack the timbers on. They were arranged on concrete blocks and all leveled. Did I ever mention thenk God and Cat for their D70 crane! Our last milling was 10 oaks cut int 13x13 cants so I could get them stackecd before winter. Them logs is heavy!

I would like to find out about the availability of good cedar for interior sheating or other use. Two Alaska folks now departed were the brothers Ken and Jerry Kard ( dad George). Ken lived in Ankorage and was a suer photographer. Jerry was excepent as well and moved to Hawaii with his work. RIP guys.

I will hunt for the names you mentioned. I would like windows and pannels which reflect a Japaneese style. I want to avoid commercial double hung if possible. Do like the big glass pannels.

Be talking soon. I want to post this but aint sure how. O well.






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