i just chopped up a first batch of pins for a little sauna project (my first timber frame) and i'm wondering about proper dimensions at the tapered end. these are 1 inch pins, 1 foot long, rough octangonal (axed), out of black ash (using mostly the sapwood- is this proper? or should i go into the heartwood?) at the end of the taper they are 3/8 inch. when i compare what i have to the pictures of pins in john rempel's 'building with wood' they look pretty much the same but a bit skinnier at the end. compared to a pin from a timber framer friend (HI NEVILLE if you're on here!!11) the taper is definitely more slender.

my concern is whether there's a potential for a skinny tip to break as the drawbore is driven home, jamming up the joint. any thoughts on this? thanks.

easy on the drawbore, easy on the taper
lots of drawbore, lots of taper... like the proverbial nun's you know what, you have to start small and ease it in there(don't forget the lube....). If it breaks, knock it out with a 1/2 bolt anyways.
I don't know if the ash you're using would be sapwood... the outer wood is best in ash is all I know.

easy then- gotcha.

i've gotto say that i love the sound of a peg tossed into the pail.

as far as drawbore goes, jack sobon's book has different measures for hardwood and softwood. if the frame is mixed (cedar and white pine posts, ash braces, tamarack sills and plates) would you go with less drawbore for the hardwood?

it's a full education in here- carpentry, sex, religion.

You can't get too crazy drawing hardwood, the pegs do start to mess up....
I don't usually draw the braces very hard anyways, if that's the only hardwood you have.

oh that makes sense- they'd be working in compression. cool. thanks. i appreciate the insights and experience.

lube? nun fantasy or for real?

nun fantasy.

...Mark....be good.....

I'll be good.
As far as lube goes, I sometimes pour some linseed into a pail on raising day and soak the pegs a bit... ( -;

timber goddess is keeping the fantasy alive.

Ya, thanks.