Daiku,
It looks like I am going to use your method. After coming back from my timber framing class last week, I know I need to properly sharpen my chisels. I'm a little short on cash so your glass and paper method looks like a cost effective alternative. Can you be a little more specific regarding the grits? 220 is pretty coarse, but I may start there to flatten the back of my chisels (old TH Witherby's). What adhesive do you use to adhere the paper to the glass? I have 3m super 77 spray adhesive on hand. Also, I assume that you are also using water on the paper (dumb question I know)? Finally, when flattening the back of the chisel, do you stroke straight back and forth, or criss cross(angle 30 degrees one way, then 30 degrees the other way)?
One more question, after 2000 grit, do you do anything else?
Thank you,
Brad

Hi Brad.

I use the 3M 77. If it builds up, a safety razor scrapes it off the glass. Make sure the glass is thick enough not the deform too much when you apply pressure. We glued ours down to a castoff melamine countertop slab that we made into a dedicated sharpening table. Its a big piece of glass so we can have many grits all available at one time. Yes, 220 is prety coarse, and you don't need to "go back" that far every time you hone. I usually don't use that grit except right off the tormek. And right off the tormek is the only time the paper gets wet. I usually just go at it dry. I usually just go back and forth (in the same direction as the handle). After the finest grit, I'll strop it on the tormek's leather wheel.

So, each time I hone, I "go back" a little further on the grits. At first, just a quick touchup on the stopping wheel, then the last couple of grits of sandpaper and strop, etc. When it starts to get "rounded over", then I'll go "all the way back" and put a fresh hollow grind on it with the tormek.

For peace of mind: Every time you go too steep and tear up a sheet of sandpaper, remind yourself how expensive the waterstones are :-)