When ordering wood stock for let's say, oak braces, how do you specify the quality to the mill or supplier?

If you are not in the heart of timber country (like me), where would you start to find a supplier for planed pine beams and oak brace stock?

I already have some rough sawn oak brace stock(about 55 pcs). It is end grain sealed (it was freshly sawn). I will need it planed 4 sides before I start cutting them. I don't have a planer (yet). These are 4X5X48 inch. Should I buy a bench planer and do it myself or have a shop do it? What should I expect to pay if someone else does it? thanks, Brad

I agree with Derek, 100%
I have recently lost my own woodlot, 25 acres of 60yr old planted pine and spruce and some good old hemlock and cedar.
Do I miss it? yes.
Now I am spending time finding private woodlot owners who want to sell small lots of timber. What I am finding is that there is some beautiful wood out there, especially in small lots. And if you are willing to pay a fair price and be very nice to the forest when cutting, people will be ready to talk to you.

I think planing your own wood is a good way to go, and the ability to plane wood is an asset. Planing braces is ok with a small planer, but you will need something else for timbers...

typically wood is specified by green vs kiln dried, rough sawn vs. S4S (surfaced four sides), grade (select, #1, #2, #2 & btr., #1 Dense, etc.) and species (mixed oak, red oak, northern red oak, white oak, southern pine, mixed southern pine, eastern white pine, douglas fir, etc.) You can also specify free of heart or boxed heart. you can also specify no wane or any other extra consideration you want to add.

Whether or not the mill will be willing or able to supply to your exact specs is another matter. You may want to ask them what they can provide in the species and size you want -- some mills only sell #2 and better, while some mills will separate the #1 stuff.

Also, most of the time if you spec S4S, you will get nominal sizes (1/2" under callout).

gh

Gabel,
I'd love to hear more about what Select, #1, #1 dense, #2 are. What grade is needed for parts of a timber frame?
Perhaps I am spoiled because of the quality of wood at my intro timber frame class. Problem is that there is no local timber around me really in Chicagoland. There is in Michigan, but I'm not sure how much pine there is big enough for beams. (Michigan was clear cut at one time and is now coming back.) I'm not sure if I should talk to a local lumber company to find out if they have contacts at a mill for proper beam material or if that will only cost me excess markup? I have no problem traveling to actually see the wood before taking delivery. I just want to make sure I get nice wood like I see in so many timber frames, and not junk with defects that make is unsuitalbe. I'm assuming I will need to get it graded by a professional grader in order to get county building approval?
I'm looking to do pine beams and oak braces, and I'm not sure where to start to find the material.

The oak brace stock I now have came from someone who saws for fun on an antique circular saw mill. I had to reject about 25 percent of the stock due to significant defects. I also want planed 4 sides, which I now have to figure out how to get done. I don't really want to have to plane myself. I'd rather just buy material ready for me to start cutting for a frame. How do I find a mill to work with?

check out the forestry forum for info on mills. There will be plenty of pine and oak in your region.

Brad

Here in southern WI EWP and Oak are abundant in high quality, just not on a commercial basis. Send me a PM and I will be glad to help you source some material.

Mike

I see my contact info is not current myaker@centurytel.net