I am wondering if there are some different opinions on the technique of sealing your joints before assembly with anchor seal or similar substance to prevent the loss of moisture too fast through the cuts and also to aid in assembly. Does everyone now choose to do this? It seems that the tradition did not have such products , or did they have a similar natural product ,perhaps beeswax? If not do Sobonites or traditionalists still choose to seal their cuts regardless? tb

We use anchorseal in our joints on all end grain cuts. And sometimes all over the tenons as well...
Being a waxed based paint it helps the joints slide together...

Hi TB and Jim:

During the construction of UCV in the 60's, all joints were coated andthen assembled using white lead paste, a no no now I realize, but permitted at that time. I believe this was to discourage fungus and rotting more than to discourage moisture from leaving too quickly.

From my inspection of old frames, I saw no evidence of any type of sealant used, and really I don't think that one is needed hewn timber will cure at its own speed and according to its specie type, and do its thing.

Please lets keep the frames as chemical free as possible, now that we know the consequences. Having worked in the restoration field for years I had to wrestle with the use of lead paint, and may other concoctions that were eventually proven to be carcinogens not only to the workers, but to others around once the substances were disturbed during reconstruction and dismantling.

NH

anchor seal on any exposed end grain

Landark makes a natural sealer.

how about a recipe for a wax based end grain sealer???

I googled a bit and found the following:

from a UK site:]
Waxes, like all solvent finishes dry by evaporation of the carrier solvent. Turpentine or turps (the lighter fraction distillate of coniferous tree resin, expensive) or white spirit (distilled from oil, much cheaper) are used.

Traditional waxes were made from beeswax (either yellow or white, refined from bee hive combs) and turpentine, this gave a very soft wax that had low durability. These were then modified by the addition of harder vegetable waxes like canuba wax (the hardest and most expensive) and Candelilla wax (softer and cheaper). Modern waxes also contain some paraffin wax (the softest and cheapest) this aids application but too much can reduce durability and sheen level. Some modern waxes also contain aromatic solvents and drying agents which are supposed to aid drying but I find them very difficult to use and do not recommend them.

It is widely accepted (in the trade) that a good wax should contain beeswax, paraffin wax and canuba wax with turpentine as the solvent. The beeswax and turps smell wonderful and the paraffin aids application whilst a good percentage of canuba increases shine and durability. Whilst it is fun making your own wax, it is quite messy and there really is no need as there are some wonderful traditional waxes still available at prices cheaper than you can make them for. Mylands wax for example is based on Gedges recipe dating from the late nineteenth century. As mentioned in the sealing section it is far better to seal the wood before you apply the wax. Another tip is do not leave the wax to dry too long before you wipe off and buff up. On almost all wax containers the instructions will tell you to wait five minutes, after this time it will prove very hard work to remove the wax, do not wait that long. Personally I suggest getting three cloths and a brush, one to apply (with brush as well) one to wipe off the excess straight away and even up and the third to clean and buff up. Work in small sections and start wiping off immediately you have finished coating an area, do not apply too much wax and change your cloths regularly. You can also apply the wax with fine wire wool, 000 or 0000 grade which will dull surfaces and smooth out any minor imperfections. Leave at least two or three days between wax coats (preferably a week) or you will just soften the previous coat and make everything smeary. Less is more, apply too much and the wax will just smear. Remove the wax every year or two with pure turps, white vinegar and meths and reapply to avoid dirt build up.

********From do it yourself site(I like the vodka!):

Wood Floor Wax: 1 cup base oil, 1/2 cup vodka, 1 to 1-1/2 oz grated beeswax, 1-1/2 to 2 oz carnauba wax (depends on hardness desired), 20 drops of essential oil of lavender.

NOTE: Carnauba wax is brittle and can be quickly pulverized by placing in a plastic bag and gently tapping with a hammer or other suitable tool.

Put the base oil and the waxes into the top of the double boiler and place over the bottom portion of the double boiler to which water is already added and is at a simmer. At "low heat" stir gently until all waxes are dissolved. Remove from heat and add vodka and essential oil and blend well. Pour into a clean, recycled nut can or other similar size heat-resistant container. Allow to harden. Use a rag to rub into the wood. If the rag "drags" too much, dip it into a tiny bit of the base oil.
****there is a caution to heat carefully!!!!!!*********


*******From another do it yourself page:

Waxes (Prepared recipes)
Simple beeswax polish

Hot melt 1 part beeswax in a double boiler and add 3 parts turpentine (genuine turpentine, not petroleum spirit based substitutes). Make at least a pint, because otherwise it's easier just to buy it (your beekeeper often sells it).


Creamed beeswax

A softer and easily buffed version that's good for leather. Can leave a residue in the pores of open-grained bone or wood.

5oz beeswax, melted in the double boiler.

Remove from heat and stir in 1 pint of turpentine in a large vessel.

Mix 1 tablespoon of ammonia with 1 pint of water.

Add the ammoniated water to the wax and stir hard.

Pot it while still warm.


Glossy wax polish

Good for polishing wood or bone to a high sheen.

Melt 3 parts beeswax with 1 part carnauba wax.

Remove from heat, stir in 3 parts of turpentine.


Bull wax

Shiny, but hard work.

Mix something like 2-3 parts of beeswax, 1 part of carnuaba and 1 part of candelilla wax in the double boiler.

Remove from heat, stir in turpentine - about three times as much as there is wax.


General guidance on making wax polishes

You should usually melt wax to mix it with a carrier like turpentine, then apply it cold. Hot-applied waxes tend to chill when they hit the cold surface and not penetrate.

Melt wax carefully with a double boiler, because it can catch fire otherwise. Alternatively use a controllable electric hotplate somewhere where you don't mind large hydrocarbon fires (don't use an exxtinguisher, just put the lid on and switch off the heat)

Grating wax on a cheesegrater, or just by shaving with a knife helps it melt more quickly..........

Hi Mark and others:

Well that is quite the list of recipes \waxes\sealers\polishers\ I hope that the readers appreciate the effort that you have put into that posting.

To go back to basics though I really don't see the fuss over sealing the exposed end grain in a timberframe. I have examined many that were over 150yrs+ and to be truthful I saw no damage whatsoever from no sealant being used.

One time in particular we dissassembled a 50' by 100' barn, 100+ yrs old and the timbers were in excellent shape (except where there had been a roof leak). I was astounded by the condition of the floor joists, which were beach, they honestly looked like they had just been put in place, the wood was fresh and clean looking, set in dovetailed mortises on the load bearing sills.

I do believe that builders do get carried away a bit, and it is my perspective that the timbers should be allowed to breathe naturally as they dry, and take up and expell humidity as it varies from season to season from the wet humid summer weather, to the dry and cold winter season. If they are sealed on the ends how are they to age normally??.

NH

The purpose of end grain sealing is so that the wood will dry slower by drying through the surfaces of the timbers, not the ends.
Drying fast through the ends makes the wood shrink at a faster rate then the interior, thus forcing a split or check...
If I understand it correctly....

NH your comments on white lead brought back some thoughts. My Dad had built our furniture that I grew up with. Ebonized oak with white lead as a pore filler was a popular finish at the time, yup, the dining room and coffee table.
I've recieved my wifes father's old tools, the socket firmers seem to be handled with white lead in the sockets, anyone else ever notice this?

Thank you everyone. Mark thanks for your extensive input. as you may have noticed I am also very interested in learning traditional recipes for paints, waxes, finishes,etc..I do like the concept of letting the frames and joints dry naturally and I am also a minimalist and anti chemical with most matters from construction to food. I think NH is correct that the old frames did just fine most likely without the aid of such waxes. Nonetheless, I does seem the positive effects of using a minimal amount of a natural seal to at least end grain joints may outweigh the negative effects such as costs of sealant, time expenditure, and possible toxicity. tb