I've been on this forum for a number of months now, and surprisingly I don't see many pictures posted of peoples current projects. If you are currently working on a frame, I'd love to see some pics. I'll post some of my own on Monday when I'm back home. I'm currently preparing to start a workshop timber frame and after that I will be cutting a frame for my house. I've just started procuring oak for knee brace stock and letting it dry in the barn(end sealed). I'm also preparing 2 spruce trees that blew down in a recent storm on our farm to incorporate in my frame (60+ year old Norway spruce). Today I debarked one of the logs- what a chore! I kept the root legs for character.

Here is my project, it isn't very far along though. I'll post more as I go. Next stop, the sawmill.



Dave

I recently bought 66 pieces of oak stock (15 white and the rest red)as seen in first pic. The hobby sawer I bought them from took back the pieces you see on top that I sorted out and he replaced them with grade 1 pieces. The second pic is the first spruce that I peeled. My first debarking and it was hard work and sticky too.

Does the floor look milky/dusty in the foreground because you sanded it? I assume that the dark look from the oil will stay looking that way after applying varnish? What is the function of the oil and what is the function of the varnish? Varnish seems like a clear coat, but why oil instead of stain or something? You can tell I don't have much finish experience.

Derek, sounds like you've got some out there experimentation. Given the detailed steps to do your floor, would you consider doing a pictorial album with commentary, in other words a step by step how to with pics? It sure would be easier for new comers like me to follow, given that I haven't done any of that. I've been doing automotive paint and body for years, and just now starting to learn about wood finishing. My first ever taste of wood finishing was on my bunk beds. Heavy application of General finish antique cherry stain on white oak, then rubbed off with mineral spirits to give it an antique look. The 3 coats of general finish Arm-R-Seal.
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=16858295&uid=2555774
Now I'm interested to learn about tung oil and whatever else I need to lean to make decisions on how to finish my timberframes and whatever other wood projects I do.

Here is one we raised last fall....turn keyed this one. and finished it this summer
http://tfb.phanfare.com/album/403777#imageID=-25710705
[img]http://tfb.phanfare.com/album/403777#imageID=-25710705[/img]

Nice work, Peggy. :-)

Brad, here is a project I am working on, although it is going to take several years to complete I think. It is the last TF building left on my farm.



As you can see, it is going to be a long process!


Dave

Nice Pegs. It looks like there is a 2X8 framework for the second floor's floor on top of T&G and timber framework. What is the reason for the additional 2X8 framing? Is it sound deadening, or room for pipes, or room for radiant floor heating, or all of the above? Is this standard for a second floor of a timberframe? I understand that they probably need something to nail to for hardwood flooring. Is this framework usually 2X8 or is it shorter sometimes to give more headroom?

Thx....Got a really interesting one maybe in Minnetonka....wants a round breakfast nook....lots of porch...Lots of bumps.....It will be a nice looking house inside and out


Be a nice house to work on through the winter

Phase one of the project is underway, I've dug out the uphill posts so I can get jacks on them, and I also dug out under the missing posts on the downhill side. I will be sawing out a ton of cribbing early next month, for some reason, I think I'm gonna need it.


Dave

Brad,
Funny you should ask, I just raised my barn/woodshop last week. I built my timberframe house in 2001-2004 and wanted (needed) to build a shop ever since to keep all of my tools in. I had to make it a barn/shop to make my wife and her horse happy.

I'm not patient enough to mill all of my own timber for a project this size but envy you for being able to. My project was far bigger than I thought it was going to be but after two years of planning and seven weeks of joinery, it turned out really great.

Here is a link to my blog http://tysonsdaily.blogspot.com/

There are pictures of my frame as well as my spring project (fireplace) and last summers project, my timberframe pavilion.

Tyson

Oh I'm not milling my own timber. I don't have a sawmill. I bought the oak stock. I will have to figure out how I'm going to get it planed 4 sides. The two spruce trees I would like to use whole, not saw them. I just don't want them to go to waste.
Pegs, any feedback on my floor question?

daiku, I was just browsing your website and noticed in your pictures there is barely a check on the timbers in your frames. What species are you using and how are you achieving this? I frame with DF and I don't think I get a timber without a check.

Well, you're clearly not looking closely enough! But I do everything I can to minimize checking. In douglas fir, one key is to avoid boxed heart timber. That's if you can't afford kiln dried (very expensive). In Eastern White Pine, you want boxed heart (it doesn't grow big enough for FOHC anyway). For both, we always coat with end grain sealer as soon as we get it from the mill (if the mill doesn't provide that step). We also seal it eveytime we expose the end grain, including inside mortises. We keep the humidity high in the shop in winter. CB.

I don't know if this classifies as timber framing but we are starting with timbers to produce this winder. Never done stairs before pretty challenging and fun. Milling 12X to get all the stock can be tedious but its pretty neat to see it go from timber to the finished result. I'll keep you all posted through the process

Mo,
How do you like that Jet planer? What thickness will it go to?

Tyson

Tyson, Man I couldn't tell you. I have never had to plane anything with too much thickness. If I remember correctly one time a couple of guys tried to ram an 8X8X14 through the sob. It was a funny sight to see. They are trying to plane this TIMBER and the planer is sliding across the shop floor......... I think it probably planes at least 6" maybe 8", I don't know, if you ever have to plane that much, just break out the planer. As far as it how it works... pretty well. That chip (sawdust) collector we have attached to it works well, but when you are planing close to a 1/2" those bags start to fill up quickly. In short the JET planer does just fine as long as you change the knives from time to time.
mo

tried to edit. didn't work. I'll find out the thickness tomorrow. But like I said too much mass is not treated kindly.

Tyson,
Awesome! You seemed to move with great speed too. I like your design and am planning to build something similar by next fall hopefully. What now? You have the frame up. Do you have a precut SIP system on it's way or going on now? Are you going to have the roof on before winter? I don't imagine you'll finish the outside unless you have hired a decent crew to do the finishing?

Looks great Tyson. the planer thickness 8"

Thanks guys,
Mo, I'll have to put one of those planers on my wish list!

Brad, I am trying to get the t&g on the roof before it snows but I haven't ordered my panels yet. Working the project one phase at a time. Last summer we poured the slab this summer cut and raised the frame, hopefully by the end of next summer I'll have all of the panels on. Slow process, but we are just progressing as we have time and money. Of course time and money are the two things we could all use a little more of!

stairs made from timbers that lead to a timberframe.

That is awesome! Good thing you have that gigundous shop to work in.


Dave