My axe was just one hanging around the house. I have tried a number of others and none fit like the one I use on a regular basis, that may just be the reason. Some are too heavy and others have been too light. The snow and nealley looks very close to the one I use, it is also one of the heavier ones I tested, maybe they make a lighter one. I had to check twice at the price of $512.99 on one of the above listed.

The axe is one of the least sharpened in my tool box, a file and a bit of stone work. I think the profile of the cutting edge has much to to with how an axe works.

Tim

Gabel, and all:


It sounds like a small-ish axe is preferred for joinery.

I have a Snow & Neally "Hudsons Bay" camping axe that is a joy to use. (plus, they're from Maine :)) It's head is just 1 3/4 pounds.
http://www.snowandnealley.com/products/axes/hbca24.htm

I use this axe regulary for splitting firewood and find I like a lighter weight axe. Splitting wood is great fun and has turned into a zen-like practice for me: reading each piece of wood to gauge how it will split, etc. I'm guessing it's much the same w/ a tenon. I love it when the piece I set on the chopping block absolutely explodes, but the effort was not overly strenuous-- the axe is left firmly in the block. When I can just leave it there; releasing my hand automatically in the pride of a near-perfect action.

I'm becoming more proficient w/ practice, (one-handed at times) and it sounds like you are refining your technique as well w/ tenons/housings, etc...

Axes are very cool.

What about for boring mortises. Do you use a boring machine, or is this one case that technology prevails, and go with a power drill or mortiser?? peg holes? Might you just use a bit brace or boring machine?Most other framers around here like their mafell mortiser and power drills for these cuts. I myself always welcome the challenge of beating the sluggishness of technology and power with sharp efficient hands and mind. tb

We, too, like our Mafell. It would be pretty hard to give it up.

Doesn't a new Mafell morticer run around $4500? And does it require some additions? The one time I had a chance to use a chain morticer, the most memorable part was the stress in my lower back. This does not happen with the Boss. All the same, I believe I am on the other end of the spectrum and continuously feel the ever present pull toward the power tool side; the dark side.

I weighed my axe last night, 3pounds, 6 ounces, with the handle, the blade measures 3-3/4", for my body, just right.

Tim

Do not give into the dark side! It's too late for me, but there's still hope for you!

I have embraced the twilight, plugged in but I carry the tools to the wood. I feel neither compomised or abused.

Tim if you should pickup a Mafell mortiser again, my suggestion is that the carpenter must dominate the tool and the top of the workpiece should be knee high or lower. I'll be sixty this summer, still working and the back is fine. I nevertheless do have other medical/wellbeing issues but not tool related.

I'll second Roger's point about being above the mortiser.

Roger, I kicked a block around to stand on, it did help. I am going to start using a new pony system that is adjustable, automotive jack stands. I may even use the jack to hold the bunk up while adjusting the height.

Tim

Before I started the last frame I cut, I created some simple saw horses out of 1x6 pine boards for using to hold timbers while using my chain mortiser.
The height of these saw horses, which we called ponies as they are so short, is 18".
I can't see how to attach a pdf of the plan here on this forum, but if anyone would like it I can email it to you. Just let me know.
And I can't seem to see a picture of them in my folders, but they worked for me by lowering the timber to a position where you could stand over the mortiser and line everything up.

Jim Rogers