Could someone describe their general approach to taking down an old pegged barn. The local Amish have developd a business out of stripping the outside boards, hiring a truck, wrapping a chain around a few posts and pulling down. They cut the braces, unpeg what they can and sell in pieces as recycled wood. They dont generally look to restore or rebuild. In many cases, that makes the most sense, but what is the takedown procedure if you want to rebuild. I dont have a structure now but could come across if I make an effort.
Thanks,
Bob

After the barn is stripped of all boards. Study the frame. You need to stand in the shoes of the framer who put it up, and take it apart the exact opposite way he put it together. You'll need a full set of drawings including all dimensions so you can label the drawings and then the parts so you'll know which one goes where, once disassembled.
Everything will need to be properly braced off so that it can come apart safely and without any damage.
You may need a man lift and a crane to do it.

I would echo Jim's comment about labelling while the frame is standing, and also take photos. Use labels that indicate up and down if possible. I'm working with an old frame now that has aluminum pie shaped labels with stamped numbers. Generally speaking, rafters come down first, then top plates and purlin plates, then queen posts, then the bents will tip over one by one. A crane is a great idea, especially if the barn is big.

Thanks for the help. Can the pegs normally be driven out or is it more likely that they need to be bored out?
Bob

getting the pegs out depends on how much drawbore was used. If one comes out, they will probably all come.

If the pegs are through bored holes you can get a piece of steel that is smaller in diameter and sometimes pound the peg out from the back side using this piece of round steel stock as a "peg pusher."
If the timbers are blind pegged then you'll have to pull them from the side where they were driven in.
This can be done by using a screw, such as a timberlock screw.
Bore a small hole into the peg center. Insert the timberlock screw and leave the head out about 1" or so. Use a crow bar or pinch bar and place the forked end under the head of this screw and pull the peg out, blocking up the bar as needed to pull the peg out.
If the peg splits due to old age, the put a hose clamp round the peg to hold it together while pulling.

Thanks for the help and pictures. Pretty cool.
Bob

I'm just trying to learn how to remove pegs. I have some pine beams with some braces still attached. The pegs are oak. I tried to pound out a thru bored peg and it wasn't working well at all. My wooden dowel would get stuck(maybe I need steel) and I found out the peg was broken and the tip end was jamming in the hole. I'll have to try the screw technique, and get a steel rod. I also should get a small boring/auger bit to try center drilling a stuck peg. I spent way too long getting 3 pegs out. I'm sure it will be easier with all of these techniques handy.

I have had good luck removing old pegs by using a steal drift pin. usually you can get on at any steal supply store. If that dosn't work get yourself a good sharp doulbe spur auger bit the same size as the peg and drill it out. use a big powerful drill with a slow speed setting. I use a milwaukee hole hog. the best auger bits i have found have been at wood butcher tools in woolwich ME. they have a web site but you have to call and tell them which bits you want becouse they are not at web store. good luck!!

Looking at the pics above using the timberloK screw, I wonder if it would be easier to pull using my slide hammer(dent pulling hammer)? It might pull straighter? What lengh should I get to try this with? I found them online in 2.5, 4,6,8,10 inch lengths hex head. I'd buy a box of 25 online unless someone has some extras I can buy off them.